WATCH THE VIDEO ABOVE !

On April 30th at 2:30 AM Azerbaijan Time ( GMT +4) TotalAdventure began the journey from the shores of the Caspian to the Mid Atlantic Ocean. The first flight , from Baku to Istanbul arrived at 0430 GMT +3. After navigating the stringent security control at IST , I boarded my connecting Turkish Airlines flight arriving in Lisbon at 1050 GMT+1. Checking into the EU, and one more control , I had a good Portuguese lunch and boarded the last flight to Ponta Delgada on São Miguel Island in the Azores Islands, a Portuguese Territory in the mid Atlantic arriving at 1500 GMT. One third of the way across the Atlantic and 60% of the way home.

The first view of São Miguel. An amazing entity in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean.

The Azores have been Portuguese since 1427. They stretch 350km along the high 30s latitudes.

The volcanic Mid Atlantic Ridge stretches from Iceland to Antarctica.

There is good surf almost every day of the year, between winter storms and summer hurricanes.

The ocean was about 17 C. ( 63 in American temperature) Perfectly comfortable for TotalAdventure.

A volcanic formed valley with extremely fertile soil. The climate ranges from an average of 13C 55F in winter to 23C 74 F in summer.

Portugal’s currency is the Euro, as of this writing is US $1.07. Costs are slightly lower than the rest of Western Europe or the USA.

TotalAdventure had only local produce and seafood . The Azores are a gastronomic paradise.

Sopa do Bacalǎo. Cod Soup.

Blood Puddding.

Grilled Sardines.

Cod Steak.

Local Pineapples.

Shrimp with head on. 90% of the shrimp flavor comes from the head. Americans have a peculiar habit of decapitating it before sale.

A Peaceful Country Lane.

In Sete Cidades.

THe islands are of course, mainly Catholic. I was not there on a Sunday,so not known on how many attend Mass.

TotalAdventure will definitely ride the next time in the Islands. It was now time to ride hime across the Ocean – first to New York and on to Miami,

WATCH THE VIDEO AT THE TOP OF THE PAGE !

WARTCH THE VIDEO ABOVE !

Crossing enemy lines by air, from Armenia to Azerbaijan via Georgia, TotalAdventure landed in Baku mid day Saturday April 27th.

The immigration officer at Baku asked why I had been in Armenia and the answer was tourism business. The passport was duly stamped , this is surely a common acccurence. At least 5 other people on the Tbilisi -Baku flight had transited from the Yerevan–Tbilisi flight.

2 Flights from Yerevan, First, a 30 minute flight North to Tbilisi on Georgian Airways. . Then an 1.5 hour hour flight to Baku on Azerbaijan Airways.

The first thing one notices when entering the oil-rich city is theincredinle buildings – ;like a mini-Dubai. Here is the Hotel Crescent Architect Andrew Burns.

TotalAdventure stayed at the Fairmont in the Flaming Towers. Arounf US 250 a night, a fraction of the price in New York. In the foreground is Mosque of the Martyrs, built by the Turkish government in the 1990s soon after the Soviet collapse.

I had hoped to enjoy Caspian Caviar , as far as TotalAdventure is concerned the only real икра – Ikra, as it’s called in Russian. InTurkmenistan we hadabouta half pound for US 45 back in 2019. THisis farm raised sturgeon and very expensive. The eggs look oerfect, and the eggy taste is mild. Supposedly the ral thing will not beavailable for anouther 15 years – fishing was shut down due to population crash. However Iran and Turkmenistan produce very small amounts.

As of this writing the Azerbaijan Manat is 1.69 to the US $. Azerbaijan is a upper middle class country and prices are similar to the US or Western Europe, though high end hotels and restaurants are lower priced.

Soviet World War Two Memorial Monument.

View from the Fairmont in Flaming Towers. WATCH THE VIDEO ABOVE TO SEE THE TOWERS FLAME !

The Azeris area patriotic people – aligned with Turkey, with bitter memories of Soviet occupation. The ongoing war with neighboring Armenia is a result of Soviet redrawing of national borders.

The cuisine – much like Turkish ,with a hint of Persian and Russian – is deliciousa nd healthy. Here isa sampling of Caspian seafood.

Egg in pita – amazing. Bürek.

Lamb. Food is Halal in the predominately Islamic nation, though alcohol is widely available.

The Old City – Sultan’s Palace.

A grave. Before the Soviets arrived, Arabic script was used, just as in Turkey. Now a modified Latin alphabet replaces Cyrillic. Turkish and Azerbaijani are very similar and people can understand one another.

Early 20th Century.

TotalAdventure has swum in all 4 Oceans – as well as many seas – which are part of , or attached to the major oceans. The Caspian Sea connects to no other body of water. Though 100 km long and 320 km wide ( 750 X 200 miles in American measurement) , the Sea is really the world’s largest lake. Like a lake there are no tides . The salinity is only 1/3 of the average ocean. Under the sea floor is much oil and gas – enriching the surrounding nations. I swam in relatively clean waters south of Baku,.

On the morning of Tuesday April 30th = TotalAdventure flew to the Azores, via Istanbul and Lisbon.

WATCH THE VIDEO ABOVE !

On April 16th, TotalAdventure boarded Turkish Airlines from Miami to Tbilisi Georgia on a one- way ticket. The reason for the one -way ticket will be discussed in the Armenia and Azerbaijan chapters to follow, but it had to do with visiting currently peaceful ,yet potentially volatile areas in the Eastern Mediterranean.

The highlight of my 6 hour layover in Istanbul Airport was Nusr-Et’s amazing $45 cheeseburger. It was quaffed with an icy cold Efes Beer.

After flying day and night and another half of a night, TotalAdventure arrivrd in Tbiisi at 3 AM. Immigration took seconds. Waiting for me was a driver from the excellent small inn British House. I dozed from about 5 AM till 11 and then hit the ground in my hiking boots.

The first graffiti I read on the street. The populace is pro-Europe ,and the nation was grated Candidate Status to join the EU this past December. However, the government, perhaps out of fear – leans pro Russia. Georgians are naturally wary of their large northern neighbor that has already captured nearly half their territory in earlier wars. As of this writing , Parlaimentt just passed a pro-Russian foreign agent law, threatening further integration with the EU.

Holy Trinity Cathedral is on top a high hill overlooking the city. For a view of city sights be sure to view VIDEO AT TOP OF PAGE !

Putin is not so popular in Tbilisi.

Lots of cool grafitti in the streets.

Many quiet squares thoughout the vibrant and fashionable city. The young crowds seem more Parisian than Muscovite.

Noisy Protests Almost Nightly. Some fear that another Trump Presidency would result in a carte blanche handover of Georgia to Putin.

Delicious Kinkhali as an appetizer.

Followed by a lamb stew.

A sparky stove !

Do not know the name but amazingly tasty !

Riverboat style architecture.

A modern bridge over the Kura River which flows from Eastern Turkey to the Caspian Sea.

Holy Trinity in the distance.

TotalAdventure’s Room At British House. 2 Rooms , actually, plus a small balcony. About 75 US.

Georgia Lari. 2.78 to 1 USD as of this writing.

The next stop was Gorki ,birthplace of Comrade Josef Stalin, Dictator of the Soviet Union from 1922 until his death in 1953. Dictators love to pose with children. Thanks to Stalin, millions of children were orphaned when both their parents were sent off to slave labor in the Siberian Gulags. The children themselves grew up in orphanages where they could be brainwashed to be obedient little Party cadres.

HIs death was secretly celebrated by many. Shortly afterwards some liberalization from an ablsolute police state began.

1930s Exection Squads.

See Stalin’s Train Car IN THE VIDEO AT TOP OF PAGE.

From the plans of central Georgia, we drove to 3000meters elevation into the Caucasus Mountains, highest in Europe,

The view of Mt.Xazhgebi by night. At over 5000 meters , it is half in Russia.

On the side of bi-national Mt.Xazhgebi,is Holy Trinity, dating from the 1300s.Winter snows are subsiding in late April.

Light From The. Heavens.

Gudauri Ski Resort is very high, over 3000m in most areas and goes on for many kilometers. In late April the season was ending, the higher peaks were off limits due to avalanche danger from the strong spring sunshine. Georgians, Russians ,Germans and Americans all ski together peacefully.

Nestled in the heart of the Last Frontier stands a captivating city surrounded by stunning natural beauty. From towering mountains to pristine waters, Anchorage, Alaska offers a unique blend of urban living and untamed wilderness. In this blog post, we’ll delve into the charm and allure of this northern gem.

A Gateway to the Wild

Anchorage serves as the perfect starting point for those looking to explore Alaska’s rugged wilderness. The city is strategically located between the Chugach Mountains and the Cook Inlet, providing easy access to outdoor adventures. Whether you’re into hiking, wildlife viewing, or fishing, Anchorage is your gateway to unforgettable experiences in the Last Frontier.

Flora and Fauna

One of the most remarkable aspects of Anchorage is its proximity to diverse ecosystems. The Tony Knowles Coastal Trail is a popular choice for nature enthusiasts, offering breathtaking views of the ocean and glimpses of local wildlife, including moose, eagles, and sometimes even beluga whales. For a deeper connection with nature, the Alaska Botanical Garden showcases the state’s unique plant life.

Cultural Riches

Anchorage is not just a haven for nature lovers; it also boasts a vibrant cultural scene. The Anchorage Museum at Rasmuson Center is a must-visit, featuring exhibits on Alaska’s native cultures, art, and history. The Alaska Native Heritage Center provides an immersive experience of the rich traditions of the state’s indigenous peoples.

Northern Lights Spectacle

For those lucky enough to visit during the winter months, Anchorage offers a front-row seat to one of nature’s most mesmerizing displays – the Northern Lights. Head to locations away from city lights, such as Chugach State Park, for an unobstructed view of the aurora borealis dancing across the Arctic sky.

Culinary Delights

Anchorage’s culinary scene reflects the city’s diverse culture and access to fresh, local ingredients. From seafood caught in the nearby waters to game meats sourced from the Alaskan wilderness, the city’s restaurants serve up a unique blend of flavors. Don’t miss the chance to savor Alaskan king crab, wild salmon, and other regional delicacies.

Urban Adventures

While Anchorage embraces its natural surroundings, it also offers a thriving urban experience. Downtown Anchorage features an array of shops, galleries, and restaurants. Visit the Alaska Center for the Performing Arts for a taste of the local arts scene, or simply stroll through the city to discover its unique blend of modern amenities and rustic charm.

Anchorage invites travelers to embark on a journey where urban sophistication meets untamed wilderness. With its breathtaking landscapes, cultural richness, and vibrant city life, Anchorage truly stands as the gateway to the Last Frontier, promising an adventure of a lifetime for those who venture north.

WATCH THE VIDEO ABOVE !

On September 5th, 2023, TotalAdventure departed Newark Airport for Tokyo ,Japan. Returning for the first time since January,2019, we landed at Haneda Airport on the south side of the city – with convenient metro lines that connect everywhere. The main focus of the trip was to take part in the 2023 Adventure Travel World Summit in Hokkaido.

After a quick rest and wash up at my beautiful Hotel, it was off to the back alleys of Shibuya Crossing to dine in a couple of the many excellent and tiny food establishments.

As I’ve been to Tokyo quite a few times, I decided this visit would focus on the metropolis’ many culinary delights.

Ramen is always a good staple after a long flight.

Succulent Mackerel  .

5000 Yen is US $ 34. There will be change. Tipping forbidden.

Around 11 the bar scene begins. There are hundreds of these little places, often with only 4 or 5 seats. Whisky is the drink of choice. Let the bartender invite you in, as foreigners are not always welcome – the reason being that they can’t take part in the intimate conversations. I had no problem, but could not add to the conversation.

The next morning I took the Hibiya Line to Tsukiji Fish Market. The market is famous for early morning auctions of the world’s most expensive and perfect blocks of tuna. However, it is now a sanitized experience viewed from afar. At a soup stall, I began with a small bowl of organ meats with scallions and soft boiled egg, some cold tea to wash it down.

At another stall, one of many hundreds, I had insanely fresh sashimi – different cuts of fatty tuna, salmon roe and uni. 1200 yen, about $ 9.

A more exotic assortment , including very high grade fatty tuna – melts like butter. Also whelks and abalone.

A real treat – giant cold fresh oysters with uni.

Quite satiated, TotalAdventure attended the Kabuki Theater. No photo or video of the actual performance is allowed, so this is of the theater and stage. The plays are many hours long, an entire afternoon. However, you can buy a ticket for just one act – about 30 or 40 minutes. All the actors are male, even for the female roles. The characters have had a lot of influence in the development of Pokemon and the beginning of the Anime culture.

Just after a mild typhoon.

5 AM Sunrise from my 40th floor hotel room at the Century Southern in Shinjuku. Please see some photos and videos from past trips to Tokyo, here on TotalAdventure Magazine.

On Sunday September 10th, I flew on JetStar from Narita to Sapporo. TotalAdventure was taking part in The Adventure Travel World Summit. Every year the Summit is held in a different location. Last year it was in Switzerland and next year will be in Panama. The Summit was supposed to be in Sapporo in 2021, but was postponed due to COVID lockdowns. Do see 2019 posts from Japan – in January 2019 the city was covered under several meters of snow, as it is every winter. But now, in mid September, the weather was humid and in the 80s – 29 C.

JAP-POW !

Before the Summit began, we were treated to a Day of Adventure. We went on the Furano Geo Adventure which included road biking in the morning and climbing into the Furano Crater, located in Central Hokkaido in the afternoon.

The volcano is currently dormant , but there are many steam vents letting out the heat of the Earth. Thirty summers prior- TotalAdventure explored similar terrain in nearby Kamchatka Russia – also in the Pacific Rim of Fire. Look back into the Russian archives in TotalAdventure Magazine.

With the very helpful and patient crew !

Our great hike leaders.

Wagyu Beef for lunch.

Bucolic Country Barn.

Rich Volcanic Soil For Farming. Everything Impeccably Clean.

The ATTA and ourHokkaido Hosts, had a great welcoming party for us at the site of the 1972 Winter Olympics. There were actual jumpers skiing down the astroturf . Snow won’t start until November.

View From The Top. Rumor has it that Winter Olympics will return to Sapporo in 2030.

The Summit was very productive and many new companies with hundreds of trips will soon join the TotalAdventure Platform.

On Friday,September 15th, TotalAdventure boarded Jeju Air from Sapporo to Seoul ,South Korea for the next phase of the East Asian Adventure.

11000 KM South To Antarctica ! See the video above !

On November 29,2022 TotalAdventure and a colleague boarded an Aerolineas jet for Buenos Aires arriving in Ezezia that evening. The next morning , from Aeroparque, we boarded a smaller jet for the 4 hour flight to Ushuaia. Please see the Ushuaia article above, if you have not already.

Above is the dock at Ushuaia, where our ship, the MV Hondius departed to and arrived from, Antarctica.

Buenos Aires By Night.

Dining At The World’s Top Rated Steakhouse – Don Julio ! The 95 degree summer weather was welcome on our return from Antarctica.

Ushuaia – Time to board the ship to cross the Drake ! Read on in the series below !

Good Fortune Ahead From Ushuaia Across The Drake !

A Long Way From Miami !

In Antarctic Summer, beginning in Late November/Early December – the sun softens the coastal icepack , allowing sections of the continental ice sheet to break off into the water – in the this case the Pacific zone of the Southern Ocean. At the same time the salt water sea ice softens and breaks up, allowing ships to enter bays and for penguins to fish in more open waters.

We see here a mixture of land and sea ice.The whiter ice is remnants of broken and melting land ice. The flat grey ice is the frozen sea surface either breaking up or just freezing more slowly under the 24 hour summer sunshine. The seawater is -2 C or 28 F. Saltwater freezes at a lower temperature than fresh, which is Zero. Those icicles are natural art – from the broken off lip of a larger iceberg.

Our Zodiacs of the MV Hondius were able to plow slowly, though ice chunks often get caught in the propeller.

One advantage of the waterpoof GoPro, TotalAdventure shot lots of footage under the ice ! Watch the video above for extensive coverage ! Here the camera is upside down , seeing the bottom of the ice floes and the water surface.

TotalAdventure aboard the Zodiac with the GoPro.

On one of the colder days, around -3 C the surface turns slushy, as is the characteristic of salt water ice when forming.

Like clouds, every Iceberg is unique.And it’s true that what you see is only the tip – very large icebergs might be only 10% above water. They can also roll over. The Zodiacs steer clear of the larger ones.

From the deck of the Hondius. See the video for much more action !

All one iceberg. There is a cove inside. Extremely dangerous to approach as huge chunks of ice can crush you.

Closer , but not too close.

On top of an ice shelf, a Leopard Seal soaks up the summer sunshine.

Inside, the water looks almost tropical ,with swimming pool blue – but of course it’s not !

I might be cute, but I can rip your arm off ! And eat an entire Gentoo Penguin in 3 or 4 bites.

Inside the cove. Like an Antarctic resort. Just add beach chairs.

At The Bottom Of The Planet !

The weight of accumulated snow may flip this iceberg – a good reason to stay clear.

Ice piled along the shoreline. Our landing spots were limited.

At Latitude 65 South, Approaching The Antarctic Circle.

This past July,2022 I flew from the sultry tropics of Miami to the cool windy streets of Buenos Aires and on up to Salta, where I met a very good friend from São Paulo. Above are winter vineyards – resting from the warm months of producing amazing Malbec.

We met in Salta and spent the night there. As it was winter vacation, the city was packed with tourists from colder parts of Argentina, though it was pretty cold there on the day of arrival.

The High Desert. Just over the Andes from the Chilean Atacama, it’s a very dry part of the world. See the video above for the real experience.

Downtown Cafayate.

In addition to excellent Malbec, grappa is produced by fermenting whole grapes.

I dipped a ladle in the jar to sample. Real firewater !

Cafayate Town.

Then back to relax at Estancia Patios de Cafayate. Our room was palatial – see it in the video above. Because of the strong dollar – it cost less than when I was here in 2008.

The washrooms are as big as an average New York apartment. With a whirlpool tub to relax after a couple hours on horseback.

A warm evening fire – set during wine tasting.

Before returning to Buenos Aires, we drove North to Punamarca in Jujuy Province. High desert at 2500 meters, but hot sunshine with temperatures near 25 C.

Flying South To Aeroparque Buenos Aires.

A classic Argentina scene . Soon to be on the dinner plates of the best steak houses in the world.

For Example, La Brigada in San Telmo , Buenos Aires.

Where the Bife de Chorizo is so tender you can cut it with a spoon.

La Cabaña.

And Don Julio – considered now the Best In The World.

The Dollar is King in Argentina. When I arrived the rate was 260 pesos to the dollar on the Blue Market. ( Official rate was 135) When I left 12 days later it was 340 – a 40% increase in value. The above steak dinners were as low as $ 15 to 20 ( not Don Julio) and taxi rides are about $ 2. The peso has since stabilized, but now is a great time to visit Argentina. You need to pay in cash – credit cards are charged at the official rate.

At La Rural – Annual Cattle Show in Buenos Aires. Photo – Daniele Puharre

La Rural. Photo – Daniele Puharre

We also visited the Evita Peron Museum. I have Argentine friends on both sides of the political divide, so I will not take sides here. However we still live in a world of personality cults and unrivaled power by one ( or two) person – this has no place in a democracy.

Roadside in Salta Province.

Incredible Apartment or Office !

A Beautiful Last Evening Before Heading Up To Paraguay.

Click To See And Book Adventures In Argentina

When most people think of Michigan, they think of Detroit,city of cars and now, urban wasteland. The Upper Peninsula is a very different land that most Michiganders have never been to, and very reminiscent of nearby Canada. People even add ” eh” to the end of every sentence.

On Wednesday, July 15 I departed Whitehall and drove through the only major rainstorm I encountered in 3 months and spent the night in in Sault Ste. Marie, normally a bustling border town, now a ghost town because of the almost total border shutdown.In July instead of 2500 cars per hour crossing, it was 50 trucks, as commercial traffic was permitted.

It was about 4 hours to Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. I parked and took a 4 mile hike through the woods ( each way) to Lake Superior.

For Full Effect, Watch The Video Above.!

For lunch and dinner I dined on delicious lake fish ,fresh smoked. Much healthier than burgers and not a slave to the early Midwestern clock.

Saturday morning, July 18th I departed Marquette and drove the rest of the vast Peninsula. Crossed into Central Daylight Time The iPhone changed instantly, but the X2 had to be set manually.

Around Noon,I entered Wisconsin, my 45th State – the first of 2 new states that day. Mostly I stuck to the Lake Superior shoreline. Though it was a beautiful summer day, outdoor eating is not a thing in Wisconsin ,so I had my only McDonald’s meal of the trip. And then – it was on to Minnesota.

On the morning of Friday,July 24th I left Deadwood South Dakota and within an hour had entered Wyoming on SD 34/ WY 24 . The first stop was Devil’s Tower.

Rising straight out of flat farmland,Devil’s Tower is 867 feet and formed in a short time due to volcanic upthrust. It is very geologically different than the Black Hills over 100 miles away, or the Rockies , more than 200. You can experience it in the video above.

By mid afternoon I settled into Sheridan, at the foot of the Big Horn National Forest. As usual I dined alone on the hotel porch rather than in a lively restaurant .COVID life on the road. Everything closed by 8 anyway.

Big Horn National Park offers hundreds of square miles of hiking, climbing, glacier trekking and ATV trailing. Since it’s not a National Park, it’s not well known except locally. I was the only Florida plate, most were from Wyoming and Montana.

Dropping down a few thousand feet from the Big Horn Range, TotalAdventure explored the Snake River Canyon , traversing the Wyoming Montana border. The canyon had been dry with a seasonal stream until a dam was built in the 1930s.

I then entered my 49th state, Montana ! Just one more to go – Oklahoma, but won’t be there until the return trip East in September.

Before Yellowstone, I overnighted in Billings and Red Lodge Montana. In Billings I enjoyed a big Montana steak, but when I arrived at my hotel in Red Lodge after a day in Snake River, about 7:30 to discover that due to COVID my hotel restaurant was closed and the few restaurants still open in town would be closing at 8. This New York/Miami traveler is not used to small town hours but had to adjust on this trip or face night time starvation. I was the last one served from the line at a Mexican cantina and scored a PBR from the bar/casino across the street. The bars closed at 9 !

From Red Lodge to Yellowstone the winding ,high altitude Beartooth Highway crisscrossed several times between Wyoming and Montana.

The Summer of 2020 was probably one of the best to explore Yellowstone. Though crowds were sizable , they were all American crowds, as most foreigners, not even Canadians, could visit in the COVID summer. The notorious traffic jams did not appear.

Yellowstone sits atop a super volcano. When it does finally blow – anytime between the next 10 minutes to 10,000 years – the park will become a 50 mile wide lake of boiling red lava and will cause global cooling for years to come.

The falls look even more incredible in the video above. Be sure to watch it all.

After a day and a half in Yellowstone ( many people stay a week or more) it was time to head north into Montana. Passing Big Sky on a beautiful highway with a legal speed limit of 80 mph I arrived in Butte around sunset. I would stay there 2 nights, to explore the old mining city , to catch up on work ,do laundry and get the extremely dusty X2 washed.

Gold Copper and silver were mined here. Butte was known as the “Richest Hill On Earth.” Miners came from all over the world. Copper is still mined, but there’s not much left. The old city is quiet but not quite abandoned.

From Butte , a few more hours to the Northwest and I arrived in Whitefish ,gateway to Glacier National Park. Whitefish was full of California ‘refugees”,many who had arrived in private jets ,escaping mask and lockdown restrictions in their home state.

In Glacier , on the first day of August, I swam over a mile in 2 lakes and walked in the snow.

On the morning of August 2nd, I left Whitefish for a day of mostly dirt roads from Montana into Idaho. I missed my westward turn and would up at the Canadian border. When I originally thought of this cross country trip,years ago, I had always meant for it to include Canada. Winnipeg, Saskatoon, and Banff would have been on the itinerary. But in March 2020, the Canadian government had shut the borders to all but commercial traffic, due ,of course to disease spread.

All I could do was look into this closed off , beautiful land – in this case the easternmost corner of British Columbia ,near Alberta. The next several hours was on windy isolated dirt roads – into the town of Yaak .

I walked inside the bar, which of course was all bikers . Had a friendly beer and they were amazed I was all the way from Miami. No photos were permitted, probably for very good reasons.

I spent the night in touristy Couer d’Alene, Idaho, another town where restaurants closed at 8 and I had to order pizza by 9 before that closed too. Changed clocks back for the last time. The next day – through Washington State, past Spokane – to Portland ,Oregon – almost completely cross country !