Archive for the 'Amazon' Category

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World’s Highest Uninterrupted Waterfall 750 feet 230m
Watch The Amazing 11 Minute Video Above.

On the morning of Monday March 21, The Equinox , TotalAdventure chartered a single engine Cessna from Ogle Airport in Georgetown. A couple of other passengers joined to help with costs. I took the seat next to the pilot.

Over The Jungle

Our one hour flight first went out over the murky waters of the Atlantic Ocean, then across the Demerara River , down the western bank. After that , houses and roads vanished, it was just thick green Amazonian jungle all the way,

The jungle was interrupted by mining operations – bauxite and gold.
Our Pilot Was Very Skilled. Flying Mainly By Sight And Also Instrument.
After an hour we were on the ground at an elevation of 1500 feet. The is jungle low most of the way, then suddenly the Earth lifts – the Guyana highlands of Guyana,Venezuela and northern Roirama, Brazil.

From the airstrip it was less than a half mile walk to the viewing points. TotalAdventure has traveled much of the world; Kaituer Falls is certainly one of the more forceful creations of nature witnessed. From 1500 feet it falls to 750 feet. According to the guides only two people have ever gone over the falls , with no trace to be found.

Billowing Closeup

As it rains almost every day of the year, the river flow never slows down.

The cinematographer in action .
Over The Perpetual Rainbow
At this rate about 5400 visitors will come this year. A privileged few for one of the most amazing natural sights in the world.

We returned to the Park Lodge for a box lunch of curry chicken and then it was time to return to Georgetown.

Air Trajectory Guyana.

Almost every weekend are flight tours. On other days a charter may be necessary, which may be more expensive, but a better chance of having the Falls to yourself.

May 3rd
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Hotel de Ville Cayenne

TotalAdventure crossed the Maroni River from Suriname to French Guyana on the morning of March 25. Before dawn, my driver, supplied by the French Embassy, picked me up in Paramaribo and we drove east to Albina , where I went through exit formalities , then boarded the ferry to St.Laurent du Maroni, notorious as the maritime entry point for convicts banished to Devil’s Island and the mainland prison camps.

TotalAdventure has been to 96 countries. Guyane is Department of France, just as Hawaii is a State of the United States. It is as much a part of France as Paris. It is debatable as to whether I can count this as Country 97.

Watch the amazing video above. Cayenne and Devil’s Island !

ColonialCayenne

After flagging down a driver for the 2.5 hour 100 Euro ride to Cayenne I relaxed with a cafe au lait and watched the jungle scenery fly by. The city is mainly old wooden buildings and is very low and swampy. There is a huge shopping mall with a Carrefour superstore. I stayed at the wonderful Hotel Ker Albert. We don’t normally post links to hotels, except where they are very helpful in achieving our mission.

Plage d’Cayenne

The beach above is one of the only beaches in the Guyanas that is swimmable. but one would not fly there just to go to it. The water has almost no salt, as there is river runoff from every river between the Orinoco and the Amazon. It is very muddy and black underneath. Constant trade winds make for good kiteboarding.

Vietnamese and Chinese soups in the Central Market.
French Dinner With Tropical Ingredients At Ker Alberte
Hospital and Lighthouse Ile Royale

The main reason I came to Guyane de France was to explore Devil’s Island. France banished its’ criminals – murderers and rapists, but also chronic petty criminals to a living hell from which few ever returned to mainland France. For good measure, I rewatched Papillon just before the journey.

Condame a Mort

The Iles du Salut – Royale, St. Josepsh and Diable – 10 miles from the mainland via shark infested rip current waters were for the incorrigibles, a prison away from the prison camps. Here is a cell for someone condemned to the guillotine. The bar was to secure a prisoner to his bed at night.

The End.
Worse Than Death – Reclusion

The solitary cells were the end of the line. Total seclusion in darkness and silence for up to five years. For attempted escape, the punishment was 2 years first offense , five years for the second – to be served in addition to the original sentence.

Light was alternated to keep prisoners from going blind . Many went totally insane.
Five Years. No talking, no reading.

Three slats of wood for a bed. No lying or sitting for 15 hours of the day – only standing or pacing. Food was a soup or gruel with a minimum amount of calories to sustain life – reduced by half for violations. No talking, no reading material. Many went mad.

Devil’s Island
Tropical Hell
Capuchin Monkey Ile Royale
Ile Diable

From the islands we returned via catamaran, with jolly French vacationers to Korou – site of the European Space Program. Then back to Cayenne for the evening. TotalAdventure then rose at 4:30 AM, took the van to St. Laurent for a mandatory covid test for both Suriname and the USA. Having missed the ferry, I crossed the Moroni by motorized pirogue to Albina where my Suriname driver was waiting. Back to Paramaribo for a delicious lunch and a 1 AM flight back to Miami.

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On Friday Night , March 18th, TotalAdventure arrived in my 94th country. Only 4 hours from Miami – and so refreshingly different ! After a late night arrival and early morning swim in the hotel pool, iW as ready to explore the city.

First stop , the Stabroek Market. View the video for the fascinating food items on sale inside. The top picture is of the Victorian Era City Hall, currently under renovation.
Three major religions of Guyana are Islam, Christian and Hinduism, reflecting the nation’s cross cultural heritage.
Pool at the Ramada Princess Georgetown.

We will be adding to this preliminary post later. Also had an amazing plane trip t Kaituer Falls yesterday !

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TotalAdventure flew from Cali to Santa Marta – from the Pacific to the Atlantic in one day. Arriving in Santa Marta at night I had a swim in the pool, then off to the Old City for supper. Now a laid back tourist town – where the barren brown Andes meet the Caribbean – Santa Marta was the main trans shipment point for cocaine to Miami back in the late 1970s and early 1980s.

In Santa Marta, I attempted to rent a 4X4 pickup tuck, but all that was available was a little eggbeater of some Kia sort of car. I then set off for the wilds of La Guajira.

Incredible Places To Eat Along The Highways. Vegan is often not option – just salad or rice and beans.
Fresh Grouper on the coast of La Guajira Peninsula.
A simple hotel room in San Juan del Cesar, $ 30 ( 120,000 Pesos) Per Night. Great AirCon and WiFi.
In the video you will see the journey through the desert. Life is hard in the Guajira – local people were selling a bitter fruit by the side of the road. I did buy some in support, but it was unpalatable and fed it to goats instead. La Guajira is one of the regions now safer to travel since the Peace Treaty was signed with FARC. FaRC is still active in scattered regions. TotalAdventure then drove through the Sierra Madres del Santa Marta back down to the Caribbean.
TheColombia Adventure ended in Cartagena, where I turned in the little Eggbeater and relaxed in the excellent rooftop pool of my hotel. It was my first time back since April,1988 when I was a reporter of the Trans Amazon Rallye. Check out the primitive but amazing website from 1995.
In a back street of the Ciudad Vieja.
Rooftop Pool – Great at the end of a long hot day.
Caribbean Sunset. To the West is Panama.
One day in Cartagena I went to meet an old family friend, the Artist Rafael Ortiz . Above, the artist in his studio.
Rafael Ortiz Art.

Rafael Ortiz Art.

The Artist directed this mural in a Barrio near the studio. To See more of Rafael’s work ,please visit his Instagram

After 11 Days in Colombia, TotalAdventure returned to Miami on the 2hour, 45 minute flight. flight – around the same time as to go to New York from Miami. Note the plane boards from both front and back – 15 minutes total as opposed to 45 minutes in the States.

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On the night of October 3, 2015 –  TotalAdventure boarded  LAN’s 787 Dreamliner from Miami to Santiago. It was the start of a two week journey,  with the main focus on the Adventure Travel World Summit in Puerto Varas Chile.

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The trip covered a huge range – from the snowy Andes to the steamy Amazon.

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After clearing customs in Santiago, TotalAdventure boarded a 90 minute flight to Puerto Montt, which was near Puerto Varas.

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It was a cold misty day – especially for someone who had just flown from the 95 degree heat of Miami.

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TotalAdventure warmed up with a  piping hot bowl of Parihuela – a fresh spicy seafood stew. For TotalAdventure’s Chilean adventures – CLICK HERE !

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A five hour journey from Rio de Janiero, via Brasilia, landed TotalAdventure in Belém – capital of the vast Pará State – about 80 km from the Mouth of The Amazon. The 450 year old Cidade Velho is closest to the River and there is a surprisingly  large modern city with skyscrapers not far inland.

TotalAdventure boarded a ferry for the one hour ride to the river town of Barcarena, which would be a 10 hour car ride by circuitous muddy roads through the jungle. These elevated cabins are not connected to the power grid, but many have generators to run their satellite TV’s.

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In the Old City.

 

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Galinhas Comem.

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Ver O Peso Market.  Belém has a refreshingly remote feel, with few tourists – yet is only about 6 hours via connecting flights from Miami. For all TotalAdventure’s Brazil Adventures – CLICK HERE.