Archive for the 'Exotic Yet Close' Category

On April 21, TotalAdventure flew from Miami to Campos Grande, Brazil , the Capital of the State of Mato Grosso Do Sul, via Sǎo Paulo. Our international group of travel industry buyers, suppliers and journalists was hosted by the Adventure Travel Trade Association , Estado do Mato Grosso do Sul, Adventure Travel companies in our host town of Bonito and EMBRATUR for Adventure Elevate Latin America 2025.

Our first morning out of Campo Grande, our team rappeled down the Inferninho Waterfall. We literally came through the waterfall! WATCH THE VIDEO UP TOP TO EXPERIENCE !

Afterwards we had a scenic 3 hour drive to Bonito. Along the way we saw a herd of capybara walking and feeding in a vast field by the highway. Capybaras are the world’s largest rodent at up to 150 pounds or 68 kilos. Unlike their undesirable smaller cousins, the grass eating capybara are friendly. Their range is from the Amazon to Patagonia.

From a great distance we observed an anteater. Photos of this elusive creature are hard to get. They live on ants and termites and are prey for jaguars and pumas. Their range is from Honduras to northern Argentina.

We also saw ostriches. A bit smaller than the African version ( about 2 meters in height) the Southern Hemisphere birds are known as Rhea in South America.

Our leader Rogerio Alves with the propetieress of Bacuri Restaurant, one of the many amazing restaurants in Bonito. It has specialties like Brazilian Picanha steak and grilled local river fish including Pacu. Rogerio is a Bonito native who is an amazing guide. his knowledge and expertise of the region are limitless. You can check out his information HERE.

Thursday April 24th was a fascinating day underground . In the morning our group descended down hundreds of stone steps into the Gruto do Lago Azul.

Ancient stalactites hang from the ceilings.

Looking out and up to the jungle above.

That afternoon was an experience like no other – Abismo Anhumas ! One is lowered 72 meters ( 234 feet) by a powered rappel almost like a rope elevator. It is dark, eerie and silent in the subterranean underworld. The lake reminded me of the River Styx, in Greek mythology, where spirits cross into Hades. Video was difficult ,as the GoPro does not do well in the dark. Nevertheless you will see some interesting footage in the VIDEO UP TOP.

Unfortunate animals, such as deer have sometimes fallen down the hole, which is not easily found in the forest.

Once in the cave we donned wetsuits and snorkeled in the dark waters. Some people scuba dived many meters below.

The next morning we were off for a day at Boca Da Onça .It was a day of hiking through the sometimes rainy forest, rappelling 90 meters down a cliff and swimming by amazing waterfalls. VIDEO UP TOP will portray these experiences in detail.

The final day we snorkeled in the the Rio Da Prata. The above photo is from a nearby waterfall. The Rio da Prata has the world’s best freshwater snorkeling in the clearest waters of the world. It is like a giant aquarium where one swims and floats for several kilometers. THE VIDEO UP TOP OPENS WITH INCREDIBLE UNDERWATER SCENES OF FISH IN THE RIO DA PRATA.

And finally it was time ot get down to business – the Business of Adventure Travel and Ecotourism. Gabriella Stowelll opened the Adventure Elevate Latin America Conference. Gabriella, who hails from Brazil, now resides in Colorado with her husband Shannon Stowell, President and Founder of the ATTA. For two days ,on Monday Arpil 28 an Tuesday April 29, there were speeches, seminars and one on one meetings between companies. TotalAdventure met with Brazilian adventure companies from the Bonito region, and also outfitters from Bolivia,Chile,Guyana,Colombia,Argentina, Peru,Ecuador and Paraguay. Paraguay is less than 100 km from Bonito.

Leonardo Persi is the Coordinator for Ecotuorism in EMBRATUR – the Ministry of Tourism for Brazil. He spoke of the amazing natural treasures that Brazil has to offer – the Aamzon,The Pantanal, the Atlantic Coast, Fernando Da Noronha, Bahia – in the world’s 5th largest nation ! Brazil is also practicing and promoting sustainable tourism. Our travel professionals can get the word out to the rest of the world – many in the USA only know of Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo.

The night before the events, the Town of Bonito hosted a huge party for a local and international crowd. The Brazilian Beef was amazing !

Bonito – the Center of Tourism in the Pantanal – is a laid back country town – with amazing food just like big Brazilian cities.

The Brazilian Real currently trades at 5.62 to the US Dollar. Prices are moderately lower than the USA and Western Europe. Electronic payment is accepted almost everywhere.

Our Amazing Adventure in Mato Grosso Do Sul had come to an end. LATAM has flights everywhere in Brazil, all of South America, and direct flights to all of the Americas, Europe and Southern Africa. Above is Campo Grande airport.

TotalAdventure landed in Dakar Senegal on November 15, after a long flight across the African continent. On Thursday afternoon I flew Skylink from Antananarivo to Johannesburg where there was a 10 hour layover, spent in a lounge ( for pay) before boarding ASKY from Johannesburg to Lomé Togo with a stopover in Kinshasa,Congo. At Lomé I changed planes for the 3 hour flight to Dakar. In the next TotalAdventure Magazine article, I will show the entire air voyage from North America to Asia to Africa and then Europe.

Senegal is an Islamic nation ,with much French influence from colonial times, speaking French and Wolof. While many are pious, the atmosphere is relaxed, with people free to practice their own ways of life. The nation transitions from the edge of the Sahara in the North to humid jungles in the South. Dakar is right in between those zones with a mild oceanside climate. It is the Westernmost point in all of the Eurasian and African landmasses.

With natural resources ,an educated city population and good air and sea ports, business is connected with the rest of the world – France, the USA and China.

Dakar is a fashion capitol. Getting on the map with New York,Paris and Milan !

West African cuisine is tasty and filling. Chicken,fish ,rice and spices are the main ingredients,

Dakar is also a cultural center for music and art.

Traffic is not horrendous like most African cities and colorful old French buses ply the streets.

Inside the Grande Mosquée Dakar. It’s one of the largest in the world. TotalAdventure was granted entry and given a tour by the watchman.

In the Courtyard, by the tens of thousands.

While the standard of living is higher than much of Africa, it is still nowhere near the level of the West.

The CFA Franc is used in the West African nations of Benin, Burkina Faso, Côte d’Ivoire, Guinea-Bissau, Mali, Niger, Senegal and Togo.It is 630 to the US Dollar. Overall prices are much lower than the US and. Western Europe., though some luxury hotels are the same or higher priced than in Europe.

Dakar coastline by night.

Île Gorée – where millions of slaves were assembled for shipment to America – many of them to Charleston and New Orleans.There was even a house for a US Consulate on the island – probably to process bills of lading. Slaves to Brazil went from Angola. Some buildings remind me of Île Diable in French Guyana – the French excelled at building prisons all over the world.

A ship from nearby Mauritania. TotalAdventure is exploring the possibility of a trip from Morocco to South Africa later this year. Details soon. Contact us directly if interested.
WATCH THE VIDEO ABOVE !


On April 30th at 2:30 AM Azerbaijan Time ( GMT +4) TotalAdventure began the journey from the shores of the Caspian to the Mid Atlantic Ocean. The first flight , from Baku to Istanbul arrived at 0430 GMT +3. After navigating the stringent security control at IST , I boarded my connecting Turkish Airlines flight arriving in Lisbon at 1050 GMT+1. Checking into the EU, and one more control , I had a good Portuguese lunch and boarded the last flight to Ponta Delgada on São Miguel Island in the Azores Islands, a Portuguese Territory in the mid Atlantic arriving at 1500 GMT. One third of the way across the Atlantic and 60% of the way home.

The first view of São Miguel. An amazing entity in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean.

The Azores have been Portuguese since 1427. They stretch 350km along the high 30s latitudes.

The volcanic Mid Atlantic Ridge stretches from Iceland to Antarctica.

There is good surf almost every day of the year, between winter storms and summer hurricanes.

The ocean was about 17 C. ( 63 in American temperature) Perfectly comfortable for TotalAdventure.

A volcanic formed valley with extremely fertile soil. The climate ranges from an average of 13C 55F in winter to 23C 74 F in summer.

Portugal’s currency is the Euro, as of this writing is US $1.07. Costs are slightly lower than the rest of Western Europe or the USA.

TotalAdventure had only local produce and seafood . The Azores are a gastronomic paradise.

Sopa do Bacalǎo. Cod Soup.

Blood Puddding.

Grilled Sardines.

Cod Steak.

Local Pineapples.

Shrimp with head on. 90% of the shrimp flavor comes from the head. Americans have a peculiar habit of decapitating it before sale.

A Peaceful Country Lane.

In Sete Cidades.

THe islands are of course, mainly Catholic. I was not there on a Sunday,so not known on how many attend Mass.

TotalAdventure will definitely ride the next time in the Islands. It was now time to ride hime across the Ocean – first to New York and on to Miami,
WATCH THE VIDEO AT THE TOP OF THE PAGE !
WATCH THE VIDEO ABOVE !

In January TotalAdventure returned to Fairbanks,Alaska, North America’s Northernmost and Westernmost City ,less than 100 miles below the Arctic Circle and just under 700 miles from Russia.

Martin Zuver , Total Adventure Marketing for Alaska ,Canada and until recently the Russian Far East, lives in Fairbanks year round. Russian Far East destinations are on hold till further notice.

When TotalAdventure last visited in June there was 24 hours of daylight. In mid January the sun rises at 10:30 and sets at 3:20. This picture was taken at 9:45 AM. The day is already an hour longer than the solstice 3 weeks earlier.

Sunset 3:20 PM.

The temperature was -31 F, -35 C when departing for the Lower 48. A few days later it was – 50 F, -45 C. While cold, that was nowhere near the record of -66 F.

Icy – an 8 month old Alaskan Husky – is right at home in the powdery snow. Sled dogs prefer a snow bed and rarely use their dog houses.

Downtown Fairbanks. Population 32,700.

Barbequeing Excellent Alaskan Beef In -20 temperature. Fire has to be very hot.

Mid Day sun on the horizon.

Fairbanks is closer to Oslo than New York – it’s a 6 hour hop over the North Pole.

Spicy the Hemingway Cat. He spends the winter indoors.

Oddly – my eye did not catch the Aurora,but the camera did !

Other Natural phenomena _ A 5.3 Quake occurred just as I was finishing up a video conference in my 7th floor hotel room at 12:34 PM Alaska time. The huge cement building swayed from side to side. A cup fell off a sink, luckily plastic. When I walked to the window to look out ,the floor felt like bouncy foam. There was no damage in the city, but it was the biggest in the interior in about 20 years. Coastal and island Alaska is the northern rim of the Ring of Fire and has some of the world’s largest earthquakes and tsunamis. A 9.2 on Easter Sunday 1964 in Anchorage destroyed the city and killed hundreds. 100 foot tsunamis washed way entire villages and fishing docks.

-24 And Sunny.

The weather necessitates engine block heaters – cars are plugged in when parked for more than a couple hours.

20,000 ft. Mt.McKinley ( Denali) 12 miles to the south.

Swimming In -8 air. Water is 106 – the Cheena Hot Springs.SEE THE VIDEO ABOVE AT TOP OF PAGE !

A Cozy Night At Thirty Below.

TotalAdventure had hoped to come from Georgetown Guyana via land and ferry across the Corentyne River. However the ferry , only recently running again after COVID shutdown had broken down and would not be repaired for weeks. The only way to go was to fly.
Be Sure To Watch The Video Above – To Experience Suriname !


To enter Suriname, I needed my passport, E-Visa, Yellow Fever book, Covid Vaccination, Antigen test ( taken that day) Port Declaration of Health, Proof of Health Insurance and a landing card, with name and phone number of hotel. Never has TotalAdventure had to show so many documents, not even Russia or Turkmenistan.

Finally I received the stamp and it was off to Paramaribo.

Across from my hotel on Keizerstraat. The city is mostly made up of colonial era buildings 100 to 200 years old, but have never been maintained. Built to Dutch specifications, the Equatorial heat and humidity are corrosive to the wooden structures.

The Dutch bought in colonists and settlers from their worldwide territories Indonesian, southern African, Caribbean islanders and West African slaves all added to the mix. 13 different languages and dialects are spoken in Paramaribo, many more in the jungles.

There is a true diversity of food everywhere. Dutch/French/Caribbean combo here.


Indian chicken roti with West African style vegetables.




All Wooden Interior of Church.





An early morning ride from Paramaribo got me to the border town of Albina by 9AM. Jungle and small villages all the way. Suriname is the most forested country in the world. Many less documents were required for exit.

The ferry from Suriname to France takes about 20 minutes and costs 3.40 Euro. There is no direct flight from Cayenne to the US – one can go to Paris and fly from there , or island hop through French islands to Miami. Consequently I will return to Suriname after Cayenne.

TotalAdventure crossed the Maroni River from Suriname to French Guyana on the morning of March 25. Before dawn, my driver, supplied by the French Embassy, picked me up in Paramaribo and we drove east to Albina , where I went through exit formalities , then boarded the ferry to St.Laurent du Maroni, notorious as the maritime entry point for convicts banished to Devil’s Island and the mainland prison camps.

Watch the amazing video above. Cayenne and Devil’s Island !

After flagging down a driver for the 2.5 hour 100 Euro ride to Cayenne I relaxed with a cafe au lait and watched the jungle scenery fly by. The city is mainly old wooden buildings and is very low and swampy. There is a huge shopping mall with a Carrefour superstore. I stayed at the wonderful Hotel Ker Albert. We don’t normally post links to hotels, except where they are very helpful in achieving our mission.

The beach above is one of the only beaches in the Guyanas that is swimmable. but one would not fly there just to go to it. The water has almost no salt, as there is river runoff from every river between the Orinoco and the Amazon. It is very muddy and black underneath. Constant trade winds make for good kiteboarding.



The main reason I came to Guyane de France was to explore Devil’s Island. France banished its’ criminals – murderers and rapists, but also chronic petty criminals to a living hell from which few ever returned to mainland France. For good measure, I rewatched Papillon just before the journey.

The Iles du Salut – Royale, St. Josepsh and Diable – 10 miles from the mainland via shark infested rip current waters were for the incorrigibles, a prison away from the prison camps. Here is a cell for someone condemned to the guillotine. The bar was to secure a prisoner to his bed at night.


The solitary cells were the end of the line. Total seclusion in darkness and silence for up to five years. For attempted escape, the punishment was 2 years first offense , five years for the second – to be served in addition to the original sentence.


Three slats of wood for a bed. No lying or sitting for 15 hours of the day – only standing or pacing. Food was a soup or gruel with a minimum amount of calories to sustain life – reduced by half for violations. No talking, no reading material. Many went mad.




From the islands we returned via catamaran, with jolly French vacationers to Korou – site of the European Space Program. Then back to Cayenne for the evening. TotalAdventure then rose at 4:30 AM, took the van to St. Laurent for a mandatory covid test for both Suriname and the USA. Having missed the ferry, I crossed the Moroni by motorized pirogue to Albina where my Suriname driver was waiting. Back to Paramaribo for a delicious lunch and a 1 AM flight back to Miami.

Columbia’s shoreline in the Pacific Ocean runs hundreds of miles from Panama to Ecuador, yet is only accessible by two roads. The coastline consists of sheer cliffs overgrown with dense jungle. It’s hardly a place for vacationers – the third rainiest place on Earth with over 300 inches per year.

An overnight in the desolate and rainy port of Buenaventura, in the District of Choco, in order to catch a ferry to a coastal ecolodge the next morning.

Narco Armies ,smuggling cocaine to American drug consumers, operate heavily in the region. Therefore it is heavily militarized. Here, a soldier standing guard at a fishing village checks his phone,

Low tide from my room. Tides are about 8 to 12 feet in the zone.








On the morning of Friday,July 24th I left Deadwood South Dakota and within an hour had entered Wyoming on SD 34/ WY 24 . The first stop was Devil’s Tower.


Rising straight out of flat farmland,Devil’s Tower is 867 feet and formed in a short time due to volcanic upthrust. It is very geologically different than the Black Hills over 100 miles away, or the Rockies , more than 200. You can experience it in the video above.

By mid afternoon I settled into Sheridan, at the foot of the Big Horn National Forest. As usual I dined alone on the hotel porch rather than in a lively restaurant .COVID life on the road. Everything closed by 8 anyway.

Big Horn National Park offers hundreds of square miles of hiking, climbing, glacier trekking and ATV trailing. Since it’s not a National Park, it’s not well known except locally. I was the only Florida plate, most were from Wyoming and Montana.


Dropping down a few thousand feet from the Big Horn Range, TotalAdventure explored the Snake River Canyon , traversing the Wyoming Montana border. The canyon had been dry with a seasonal stream until a dam was built in the 1930s.

I then entered my 49th state, Montana ! Just one more to go – Oklahoma, but won’t be there until the return trip East in September.


Before Yellowstone, I overnighted in Billings and Red Lodge Montana. In Billings I enjoyed a big Montana steak, but when I arrived at my hotel in Red Lodge after a day in Snake River, about 7:30 to discover that due to COVID my hotel restaurant was closed and the few restaurants still open in town would be closing at 8. This New York/Miami traveler is not used to small town hours but had to adjust on this trip or face night time starvation. I was the last one served from the line at a Mexican cantina and scored a PBR from the bar/casino across the street. The bars closed at 9 !

From Red Lodge to Yellowstone the winding ,high altitude Beartooth Highway crisscrossed several times between Wyoming and Montana.

The Summer of 2020 was probably one of the best to explore Yellowstone. Though crowds were sizable , they were all American crowds, as most foreigners, not even Canadians, could visit in the COVID summer. The notorious traffic jams did not appear.


Yellowstone sits atop a super volcano. When it does finally blow – anytime between the next 10 minutes to 10,000 years – the park will become a 50 mile wide lake of boiling red lava and will cause global cooling for years to come.



The falls look even more incredible in the video above. Be sure to watch it all.
After a day and a half in Yellowstone ( many people stay a week or more) it was time to head north into Montana. Passing Big Sky on a beautiful highway with a legal speed limit of 80 mph I arrived in Butte around sunset. I would stay there 2 nights, to explore the old mining city , to catch up on work ,do laundry and get the extremely dusty X2 washed.

Gold Copper and silver were mined here. Butte was known as the “Richest Hill On Earth.” Miners came from all over the world. Copper is still mined, but there’s not much left. The old city is quiet but not quite abandoned.


From Butte , a few more hours to the Northwest and I arrived in Whitefish ,gateway to Glacier National Park. Whitefish was full of California ‘refugees”,many who had arrived in private jets ,escaping mask and lockdown restrictions in their home state.

In Glacier , on the first day of August, I swam over a mile in 2 lakes and walked in the snow.





On the morning of August 2nd, I left Whitefish for a day of mostly dirt roads from Montana into Idaho. I missed my westward turn and would up at the Canadian border. When I originally thought of this cross country trip,years ago, I had always meant for it to include Canada. Winnipeg, Saskatoon, and Banff would have been on the itinerary. But in March 2020, the Canadian government had shut the borders to all but commercial traffic, due ,of course to disease spread.

All I could do was look into this closed off , beautiful land – in this case the easternmost corner of British Columbia ,near Alberta. The next several hours was on windy isolated dirt roads – into the town of Yaak .

I walked inside the bar, which of course was all bikers . Had a friendly beer and they were amazed I was all the way from Miami. No photos were permitted, probably for very good reasons.


I spent the night in touristy Couer d’Alene, Idaho, another town where restaurants closed at 8 and I had to order pizza by 9 before that closed too. Changed clocks back for the last time. The next day – through Washington State, past Spokane – to Portland ,Oregon – almost completely cross country !
On August 3rd I drove 400 miles from Couer d’Alene Idaho to Portland, Oregon, transversing eastern Washington State ,then along the Columbia river as the desert emerges into green forest. Portland is home to my Son, his Fiancée and soon, my Grandson.

I stayed in beautiful downtown Portland in an AirBnb very close to my son’s. The Rose City was on war footing as nightly street battles erupted between extreme left and extreme right factions along with police and federal agents.

The Apple Store destroyed, with the senseless destruction uploaded via Apple devices. However Fox News dogwhistles on “Antifa ” were largely to spread panic and give undercover law enforcement free rein . TotalAdventure does best to stay neutral in these extremist political times. We are about bringing the world together, not ripping it apart.

Burned and Bashed – The Federal Courthouse.


In a three week break from the road ( TotalAdventure and family business) we managed to take beautiful trips within the state.

Crater Lake was created in one day 7000 years ago when the mountain blew its’ top. Thousands of years of precipitation, mainly melted snow, have filled the crater with water almost 2000 feet deep. There is one swimming area, reachable by a path that descends 800 feet from the rim.. . See the video where we jump off a 35 foot cliff.

Portland is two hours from the Pacific Ocean. The X2 had finally made it coast to coast !

In Portland it was 96 degrees, in Tillamook the air was 74 and the ocean ,an icy low 50s. If TotalAdventure is unable to swim, that means the water is only swimmable in a wetsuit.

In Montana the X2 had reached 10000 miles, at the tender age of 3 months on the road. In Portland BMW performed the first free maintenance and took care of a few very minor repairs, as well changing oil.
On August 19th, it was time to explore California !
On Thursday August 20th, after lunch with my son and future daughter in law, I left Portland Oregon and headed south on the the I-5 ,then US 101 before arriving in California’s northernmost town, Crescent City for the evening.

Crescent City is a big fishing port . The water is slightly warmer than nearby Oregon, in the high 50s, so I was able to swim. I had had a delicious seafood soup breakfast before heading to Humboldt County.

Eureka, the county seat, is a funky old town reminiscent of 1960s San Francisco. Most Californians have never visited Humboldt , one of the most remote end unspoiled coastlines in the Lower 48.

I was privileged to spend a night in Shelter Cove, an isolated community at the end of a long and windy road that raises and lowers up to 3000 feet before arriving at sea level.It’s very hard to find a room there.

Incredible black sand beaches with very dangerous surf. The Cove of Shelter Cove is where all water activity takes place. Please see the video at the top of the page. The summer weather is pleasant, about 70 and sunny in the afternoons, but the winter can bring up to 100 inches of rain from December to March.

Northern Humboldt is home to huge legal marijuana farms supplying the California marketplace. One can smell it while driving by the tents used for growing and drying.

After Humboldt it was off to volcanic Lassen National Park. See the video. Night was spent in Reno Nevada – not in the COVID restricted casino but in a huge luxurious suite at $ 90 a night.

2 nights in Tahoe, 2 nights in cold smoky San Francisco and a night in Carmel are all highlighted in the video. The plan was to drive down Big Sur, but again ,closed because of massive fires. I wound up at the farm home of a friend in Ojai. Finally was getting towards Southern California.

TotalAdventure has always been interested in living part time in Los Angeles. A week in an AirBnb as I did in Santa Monica this time, and last year, a week in Beverly Hills.


Although Santa Monica stayed cool, never going over 90, Las Angeles County experienced its’ hottest day in history on September 6th. We drove to Van Nuys to experience it – 121 degrees ! Also the hottest temperature ever recorded west of any mountain range in California.
On September 10th – it was time to head back to the East.