Archive for the 'East Europe' Category

Jul 27th
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Budapest was a quick layover for sightseeing and eating local specialties . It was TotalAdventure’s first visit since 1983 – when the Red Star of Communism was at the top of the Parliament Building.

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We arrived early on Sunday morning , June 19, after an overnight journey form Krakow, through Czech Republic and Slovakia.

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Though we had First Class Eurail, only second class sleepers were available. Comfortable enough.

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Our luxury hotel ( quite cheap ) , the Buddha Bar was just across the bridge.

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No Euro here. At 285 forint to the  U.S. Dollar, gourmet meals are amazingly cheap.

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In the Central Market.

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Delicious Game for lunch.

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Shot by TotalAdventure’s Blaine Zuver and Martin Zuver.

 

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A an overnight first class sleeper train ride from Budapest had us arriving fresh and rested on the first morning of summer, June 21.

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The”Dacia” Boarding in Budapesti Keleti.

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Brasov – Romania’s Hollywood ? Brasov is the center of Transylvania.

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Dracula’s Castle, known as Castle Bran, is about 25 km from Brasov. Building began in the 1200s and was added on to over the centuries.

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A hidden stairway deep in the interior.

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The modern day ( 1883 ) Peles Castle, in Sinaia. was built by King Carol.  It was built with electricity,telephones,telegraph and other modern conveniences.

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The Carpathian Mountains are quite undeveloped. There are a few small ski areas, with a long powdery season, rafting,climbing and seeing rare animals that are extinct in Western Europe. For many years only Dictator Nicolae Ceaușescu was allowed to hunt.

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While forcing his subjects to live in poverty and half-starvation,Ceaușescu lived in the grand style of a Communist Emperor .An entire section of Bucharest ( not just a neighborhood, but comparable to the Upper West Side of Manhattan or Soho in London  ) in order to build the People’s Palace – the world’s second largest building in terms of square footage , just after the Pentagon. It took 18 years to complete – from 1978 to 1996 – 7 years after the execution of he and his vile wife Elena.

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A chandelier weighing 5 Metric Tons  – one of over 100 in the building – constructed at a time the populace was relegated to one 40 watt lightbulb per apartment.

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The Dictator. – “Genius of The Carpathians” was one of his many self-bestowed titles.

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One of many grand staircases. Many had to be rebuilt several times in order to make him seem taller than his  short stature.

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The view from one of the balconies from which Ceaucescu would never make a speech.

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One in three adults were rumored to work for the Secret Police – the Securitate.

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In a nautical mode.

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In Nicolae and Elena’s villa – solid gold water faucets. Commoners were rationed to half an hour of hot water every other Sunday.

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Modern radio – circa 1988.

5pp 3pp

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On the morning of June 24 TotalAdventure flew from Bucharest to Belgrade,Serbia and then took a 6 hour van ride to Sarajevo,Bosnia. The alternative would have been a 2 day train journey. Rail lines in former Yugoslavia are still heavily damaged from Allied bombing during the 1990s wars and are only now starting to be rebuilt.

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The Balkans in Bosnia are quite beautiful,belying the centuries of warfare that have been taking place there.

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20 Years later and damage is still evident throughout Sarajevo, a four year siege of bullets and shells.

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Air Serbia to Belgrade.

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A Shrine In Western Serbia.

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Along the river in Sarajevo.

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Above Sarajevo.

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Hundreds of thousands were killed over a four year period.

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All the stones in this area of the graveyard have the same departure date. Graves are everywhere, including in city parks.

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In Ramadan there is a sixth prayer call of the day – after Iftar – when the daily fast is broken.

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Iftar Tea.

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Iftar Approaches.

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Iftar Meal – Lamb Sausage.

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Mostar ( Bridge) in Mostar. It was blown in half during the war and rebuilt a few years ago. See the video to watch men dive from it.

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Bombed Buildings In Mostar.

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Shrine To Slobodan Milošević in a Republika Srpska bus station. Republika  Srpska consists of t Serbian controlled areas of Bosnia. For now, a tense peace exists.

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Destruction Everywhere.

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Kosovo is Serbian !

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A Peaceful Summer Day in Mostar. The temperature was about 38 C ( 101 F).

 

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Jul 25th
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One of the world’s newer nations, Montenegro declared independence from Serbia in 2006. Montenegro escaped the vicious wars that  tore apart and destroyed most of the other Yugoslav Republics. TotalAdventure entered by bus from Mostar,Bosnia on Sunday night, June 26th. On Monday we hired a local driver ( 65 Euro) to take us to Bar – where we took the last leg of our Eurail trip – about one hour to the capital city,Podgorica.

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The Bay of Kotor is a Fjord coming in from theAdriatic Sea.

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Islands with churches dot the Bay. Montenegro is primarily Serbian Orthodox.

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Herceg Novi ,near Croatia and Bosnia , is beautiful and more isolated from tourist crowds to the South.

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Medieval Ruins in Kotor Town.

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Stevi Stefan – for Serbia’s Elite !

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Herceg Novi.

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Adriatic Coastline. About 50 miles north of Albania.

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Sunset over the capital city of Podgorica – known as Titograd in Titoist times.

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Our land based  journeys now behind us, it was time to move on for the final phase of of our journey – Turkey. We arrived at sleepy TGD about an hour before the flight.

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Unfortunately June 28th was to be another bloody ISIS attack – this time at Istanbul’s Ataturk Airport, one of the busiest in the world. TotalAdventure landed about 12:30 PM , passed passport and visa control and then transferred to the domestic terminal to board our 90 minute flight to Bodrum. The attack took place about 8 hours later – not in the part of the airport we transited, but killing 41 people. 17pp8pp

13pp

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On July 2 at 7 AM we left our host’s house in Bodrum to board a catamaran ferry to the Greek island of Kos, only 20 km across the channel. We looked back at  beautiful vibrant  Turkey, hoping  to return in the near future – to explore from Istanbul to the eastern provinces.

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We arrived in port 20 minutes later. We spent nearly 40 minutes to get passports stamped, as we were re-entering the EU and Shengen. Afterwards a 50 km taxi ride to Kefalos .

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In Kefalos , we found a beachside Taverna where we ate excellent grilled squid, stored our stuff and went snorkeling.

The water was as clear as an aquarium.

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There were ruins right by the sea !

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Soon it was time to leave for the airport. We took a turboprop to Athens, flying over hundreds of Aegean Islands. In Athens – once again passport control , as we were leaving Schengen. 4 hours later – another 1.5 hours in customs entering the UK.

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Just before midnight we arrived at our hotel, after a long Tube ride. We were right by the Tower of London and Tower Bridge.

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Our final day before returning Stateside was a whirlwind tour of some of the major sights.

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Iconic, but we opted for Indian instead.

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GMT + 1. The Trans European Adventure comes to an end.       7pp15pp9pp   6pp

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This evening TotalAdventure departs Miami, flying to Munich via London. From Bavaria we go by train through Austria,Czech Republic,Poland,Slovakia, the Carpathian Mountains in Romania , the Balkans in Bulgaria, Bosnia,Serbia,Croatia and Montenegro, arriving in Turkey by ship.

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Tonight’s Route.

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2014 was an incredible travel year for ArcticTropic. We explored Myanmar ( Burma), European Russia,Siberia,Mongolia,China,Japan,British Colombia,Canada,Singapore,Philippines and Panama. Here’s 184 clips in 11 minutes. This version is natural sound,a musical version will be uploaded soon.

Dec 29th
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2014 was a busy travel year for ArcticTropic. In all, we travelled an equivalent of more than twice around the world.The voyage to Myanmar in March ,via Frankfurt and Singapore was to the opposite side of the world and back the same route. In May and June we travelled in a continuous Eastbound direction until we ended up back where we started. In contrast, the 2.5 hour hop to Panama was a mere commuter flight.

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Final edit of Go-Pro footage of ArcticTropic’s exploratory voyage across Russia in early Summer 2014. Five days in Moscow , then to Irkutsk,Lake Baikal and Ulan Ude , before crossing into Mongolia.

 

For Adventures in Russia, CLICK HERE