Archive for the 'Architecture' Category

Jun 21st
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Crossing enemy lines by air, from Armenia to Azerbaijan via Georgia, TotalAdventure landed in Baku mid day Saturday April 27th.

The immigration officer at Baku asked why I had been in Armenia and the answer was tourism business. The passport was duly stamped , this is surely a common acccurence. At least 5 other people on the Tbilisi -Baku flight had transited from the Yerevan–Tbilisi flight.

2 Flights from Yerevan, First, a 30 minute flight North to Tbilisi on Georgian Airways. . Then an 1.5 hour hour flight to Baku on Azerbaijan Airways.

The first thing one notices when entering the oil-rich city is theincredinle buildings – ;like a mini-Dubai. Here is the Hotel Crescent Architect Andrew Burns.

TotalAdventure stayed at the Fairmont in the Flaming Towers. Arounf US 250 a night, a fraction of the price in New York. In the foreground is Mosque of the Martyrs, built by the Turkish government in the 1990s soon after the Soviet collapse.

I had hoped to enjoy Caspian Caviar , as far as TotalAdventure is concerned the only real икра – Ikra, as it’s called in Russian. InTurkmenistan we hadabouta half pound for US 45 back in 2019. THisis farm raised sturgeon and very expensive. The eggs look oerfect, and the eggy taste is mild. Supposedly the ral thing will not beavailable for anouther 15 years – fishing was shut down due to population crash. However Iran and Turkmenistan produce very small amounts.

As of this writing the Azerbaijan Manat is 1.69 to the US $. Azerbaijan is a upper middle class country and prices are similar to the US or Western Europe, though high end hotels and restaurants are lower priced.

Soviet World War Two Memorial Monument.

View from the Fairmont in Flaming Towers. WATCH THE VIDEO ABOVE TO SEE THE TOWERS FLAME !

The Azeris area patriotic people – aligned with Turkey, with bitter memories of Soviet occupation. The ongoing war with neighboring Armenia is a result of Soviet redrawing of national borders.

The cuisine – much like Turkish ,with a hint of Persian and Russian – is deliciousa nd healthy. Here isa sampling of Caspian seafood.

Egg in pita – amazing. Bürek.

Lamb. Food is Halal in the predominately Islamic nation, though alcohol is widely available.

The Old City – Sultan’s Palace.

A grave. Before the Soviets arrived, Arabic script was used, just as in Turkey. Now a modified Latin alphabet replaces Cyrillic. Turkish and Azerbaijani are very similar and people can understand one another.

Early 20th Century.

TotalAdventure has swum in all 4 Oceans – as well as many seas – which are part of , or attached to the major oceans. The Caspian Sea connects to no other body of water. Though 100 km long and 320 km wide ( 750 X 200 miles in American measurement) , the Sea is really the world’s largest lake. Like a lake there are no tides . The salinity is only 1/3 of the average ocean. Under the sea floor is much oil and gas – enriching the surrounding nations. I swam in relatively clean waters south of Baku,.

On the morning of Tuesday April 30th = TotalAdventure flew to the Azores, via Istanbul and Lisbon.

Jun 10th
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On April 22 TotalAdventure departed Tbilisi by auto, with the driver from British Hotel. Before leaving Tbilisi, there were a few stops to pick up necessary documents for crossing the border.

From Tbilisi to Yerevan is about 300 km, taking around 5 hours, including time crossing the border.

Armenia – Country Number 97 For TotalAdventure.

Shortly after the border crossing we had a bit of a detour. The driver received a text warning that Azeri soldiers had made an incursion into Armenian territory. The war has been on and off for over 30 years – since the breakup of the Soviet Union. The next road we went on was closed for about 30 minutes due to a farmer’s demonstration. In all delays were about 90 minutes. It was later reported one Azeri soldier was killed. Above, the peaceful image of winter’s snow receding in the strong spring sunshine.

TotalAdventure’s hotel was right off Republic Square – a grand plaza of Government buildings, libraries and museums.

A delicious dinner at Kavkazia – beginning with Dolma.

Followed by Borsht and then Shashleek. Armenian cuisine is hearty – a crossroads of various Empires – Russian,Turkish, Persian,Greek.

Armenian Dram. As of this writing, the Dram is 387 to the US Dollar. Overall the country is lower priced than the US and Western Europe. A good meal for 2 in a top restaurant, with wine would be about US $ 60, about a tenth of that in a common locals canteen.

Mt.Ararat in Eastern Turkey. It is where Noah landed the Ark after the Great Flood. The mountain is sacred in Christianity,Islam and Judaism. Though only 53km ( 32mi) distant as the crow flies – to drive is 547 km since the Turkish border has been closed since 1991 -one must circumnavigate through Georgia to get there. At nearly 17,000 feet, 5800m the mountain is snowcapped for eternity.

The Cascade – 672 steps with the 40th Anniversary of Soviet Armenia Monument at the top. TotalAdventure climbed it effortlessly on a 29 C day.

Author of a a favorite childhood book “My Name is Aram.”

Artist and Director Sergei Paradjanov pictured at his home, now a museum.

Paradjanov Artwork.

Paradjanov Artwork.

In may places throughout the city – memorials to soldiers killed in the ongoing war with Azerbaijan.

Russian TV is prominent. TotalAdventure watched Rossiya 24 – like a Russian verion of Fox.

Rossiya 24 previewing things to come. TotalAdventure is self taught to read Cyrillic – very helpful in Russia ,the Balkans ,Mongolia and the post Soviet world in general.

TotalAdventure often hires a car with driver in many countries, in order to film and photograph the countryside. In Armenia that was prohibitively expensive, so I rented a Chevy SUV for $ 35 a day.

The main mission was to visit ancient churches and monasteries. Taking information from an online guide, I pasted the locations in Google Maps on my MacBook Pro and then sent the resulting map to my iPhone. This map – Bluetoothed on my dashboard screen- was my tour guide throughout the next two days of exploration. These features will soon be embedded in our new engine – adventuretravel.ai

All the monasteries are featured in THE VIDEO AT THE TOP.

Mother Stork Is Expecting ! Or perhaps feeding the little ones.

The Soviet bus seems to be a 1950s relic – but it’s from 1987.

Remains of Zvartnots Cathedral.

1300 hrs. Armenia is GMT + 4 – 2 hours ahead of Western Europe and 8 hours ahead of New York.

Poppies – a popular flower in nearby countries.

Interior Cathedral.

Hovhannavank – The Catholicos of Armenia.

A church on a forested mountaintop.

Overlooking Lake Sevan. SEE THE VIDEO AT THE TOP !

St,Gregory – who was imprisoned in complete darkness in a snake pit for 13 years !

Also overlooking Lake Sevan is the Writer’s Hotel. Built around 1960, it is a classic example of Soviet Brutalist architecture.

After years of abandonment, it is now reopening as a hotel – the views are beautiful, the rooms basic, for about $ 35 a night. And writers won’t have to write about the glories of Lenin and Marx.

Final stop to gas up the rental ! The next morning TotalAdventure flew around enemy lines to Baku.

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From November 30 to December 8,2023 TotalAdventure was the guest of The Adventure Travel Trade Association, PromPerú and APTAE for an exploration of Southern Peru from the high Andes to the desert beaches of the South Pacific Ocean. The trip was led by Apumayo Expedicones and Colca Trek.

The trip began and ended in Arequipa, Peru’s second largest city ,with a population of just over a million. TotalAdventure first passed through the city in 1988, as a reporter cover the Trans Amazon Rallye.. Though better conditions now prevail,many of the roads were familiar.

General area of the expedition. Lima Peru is only a five hour flight from Miami.

From Arequipa, Elevation 2300 meters we drove quickly up to 5000 meters where the oxygen is thin and temperature cold, slightly above freezing.

We stopped in the town of Chivay where we were welcomed by the local tourism committees. SEE THE VIDEO AT THE TOP OF THE PAGE !

Overnight was at Colca Trek Lodge . The rooms were comfortable and the night was very cold – close to 0 C. Thankfully there was a blazing fireplace in the bar.

In the morning we went to observe Condors drifting above the Canyon. Then we biked downhill very fast for about 20 km. SEE THE VIDEO AT THE TOP OF THE PAGE ! Afterwards the team traversed the Colca Canyon dropping down over 2500 meters to the river itself.

Mid day sun directly over the Colca River. Early December in Southern Peru is the strongest sun on Earth.

Coca leaf is completely legal and is chewed or taken as a tea. It helps for altitude fatigue and commonly used by everyone. This is the legitimate use. For the illegal use, three kilos of leaves, about a garbage bag full, are required to distill one gram of the isolated alkaloid.

Andagua Homestay.

The night was spent in a private house where it was again, very cold. The sun comes up at 5 – breaking the cold ,time to enjoy coffee with an inquisitive cat.

Again we drove to 5000 meters -over 16,000 feet. The snow is perpetual on the glaciated mountaintops that are 6500 meters.

The beautiful shot above, of a glacial lake below the Coropuna Volcano. Credit : Jehiel Boner of Tripsite. The TotalAdventure logo is automatic, but the photo belongs to the photographer.

El Misti.

Afterwards we dropped down 13000 feet intoa warm dry valley to dine at Hacienda Ongoro. Above – freshwater crawfish.

Jefe Chef.

Hominy on the Cob. The Andes are home to over 200 varieties of corn and 2000 types of potato. When the Spanish bought these staples home, European cuisine changed completely.

At one of the driest spots on earth – where it last rained in 1941, we explored petroglyphs from the 12th century. the pictures tell a story – similar to the very large ones at Nazca – 200 km North.

When TotalAdventure flew above Nazca in 1988, the concept of Space People became very convincing.

At last it was time to move on to the clear, cold Pacific Ocean. Our route was slightly detoured due to a small 4.2 quake that morning ( woke to that) which had caused a rock side on the road.

Caleta San Jose,. A place so exclusive – it is almost impossible to get to. SEE THE VIDEO ABOVE to experience the insane ride to the desert beach.

Playa y Pacifico Panorama.

The water is clear and about 18 C. 65 F. The Humboldt Current from Antarctica keeps things cool. Winters can be foggy – we were there for the start of summer, so the sun came out around 9 AM.

After dinner discussion.

Followed by a bonfire on the beach.

TotalAdventure ,having spent most of life by the sea, could easily adapt to life here, with fresh fish and uni from the surf every day, nightly bonfires and clear weather.

It was time to return to Arequipa, where TotalAdventure had over 30 meetings with excellent Peruvian Adventure providers. many of whom will soon be selling on TotalAdvnenture.

Alpaca – It’s What’s For Dinner !

Nov 2nd
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TotalAdventure’s Final Stop On September’s East Asia Voyage Was Taiwan – Republic of China. I have been to Mainland China 5 times and several times to Hong Kong and Macau , including when they were British and Portuguese Colonies. Taiwan was different in two ways – it is a Democracy, though not on the level of Europe or the USA. It is also uncrowded – only 30 million people – which is far smaller than several Mainland Cities. For several years Taiwan has been “on the list” but now due to increasing tensions across the Straits ( as little as 80 miles ,120 km) ) the time to go might be now. TotalAdventure thinks it’s highly unlikely that that Beijing would attack Taipei – the economic and political fallout would be massive – but the same was said about Putin and Ukraine. Unfortunately the rule of travel these days, for many parts of the world, is to go now, while one has the chance. TotalAdventure explored Tigray extensively in early 2020- just before COVID and then a horrific genocidal war later that year. Of course , War Tourism is now a thing – a dangerous form of adventure. On this trip – Taiwan was peaceful – though often with the roar of fighter jets in the background. The island is surrounded by PRC Battleships and Coast Guard – sometimes only 30 miles, 50 km from the shore.

Money Cat is revered all over the Chinese Diaspora.

Tower 101 was the tallest building in the world 20 years ago. It is now the 10th tallest.

Some interesting architecture from 553 meters.

The Taiwanese Dollar is 31 to the US Dollar. Prices are moderately lower than the USA. Simple meals as low as $ 6 , comfortable hotel is $ 80 and luxury hotel about $ 140. (US) 100 mile 160 km fast train,$ 5.

Confucius centered Buddhism is the main religion.

Old teachings are adapted for modern life – the pursuit of success.

One of the main reasons to explore Taiwan is for the food – different , and not as exotic as Sichuanese or Cantonese , but equally as tasty. Above,Black Meat Chicken.

Very Spicy pork noodle soup.

Hot Pot.

Seasoned Scallops.

Shrimp That Were Jumping 10 Minutes Before.

Looking a lot like Ballyhoo bait fish from Florida and the Bahamas. But very tasty grilled.

“Aboriginal” Lunch.

A strange fruity dessert.

The Nationalist Flag of Kuomintang China.

From Taipei , TotalAdventure traveled by train to Xincheng, on the East Coast. The Deep Blue Pacific was calm and beautiful.

The local population, having experienced many typhoons and a few tsunamis is quite fearful of the sea, and few swim. It is a pity , because the sea, in late September , is clear and warm. TotalAdventure did swim, albeit with some caution.

Near Xincheng is Taroko National Park. One needs a car to explore – TotalAdventure hired a taxi for the whole day for 2500 NT$, about 80 US.

Massive water volume bursts through the canyons . Though the weather was dry – the rivers run fast from the ending rainy season.

The climate is subtropical with hot summers and mild winters. On the highest mountain tops some snow falls in winter.

Oriental Ambience.

On the last evening in Taipei, TotalAdventure climbed the Tomb of Chiang Kai-shek. He ruled the breakaway Republic until his death at age 87 in 1975.

The Long Flight To SFO. 11 Hours. Left Sunday Night and Arrived Sunday Afternoon.

Oct 6th
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TotalAdventure and VentureCuba returned to Havana after a 4 year hiatus this past August. When we last departed in May, 2019 , just after the Havana International Tourism Fair, attended by thousands, plans were on to start cultural and adventure tours later that year.

Then two unfortunate situations derailed those plans. First, a certain hot-headed State Department official convinced a vote – hungry (ie.Miami vote) President ,who himself once wanted to build casinos in Cuba, to totally reverse all Obama era openings across the Florida Straits. No one was happier than Vladimir Putin ! While entry by US citizens was never prohibited, cruise ships were cancelled mid -journey , with over 100,000 reservations cancelled, and flights to cities other than Havana were prohibited – totally eviscerating our itineraries which would entail days of driving rather than quick flights from Miami.

At the same time COVID came along . With limited health facilities , Cuba issued draconian decrees, confining people to their homes except to go out to try to find scarce food supplies. Places of employment and private businesses closed. Land and sea borders were closed for two years. Tourism, of course, was non existent.

Havana commerce and tourist crowds were a shadow of the bustling days of 2015 to 2019. Once noisy colonial squares were dark and eerie during the night. Many hotels were shuttered or running at 20% occupancy. Flights to Mexico are packed with passengers bearing one -way tickets -eventually getting to the US – an unwanted side effect of the anti-immigration President’s policies.

But enough of politics ! Many Cubans have opened up new businesses . Pizza parlors and barber shops run out of private homes are bustling. Let’s check out some highlights around Havana.

One of the better kept buildings. Many are in even worse repair than before.

Model Shoot !

El Capitolo.

One of our rides – a ’48 Chevy.

Retro Restaurant.

Kids here actually play outside ! While 78% of the population now has a smartphone, children don’t seem to be as addicted to them.

Enjoying A Cohiba Robusto at the Hotel Nacional. We did not stay there, just stopped in for a Puro.

TotalAdventure Hotel Room At Bahia Lofts. OFAC Compliant. Duplex with balcony for about US 100 per night.

Late Night In A Back Alley.

Time Is Still Standing Still.

After 3 days of meetings with tourism officials in Havana, we spent part of the weekend in Trinidad – a 4 hour drive away. This was the one town we saw more visitors – mostly younger, from Spain or Italy. You can see more pictures in earlier TotalAdventure Magazine posts about Cuba. There are quite a few good restaurants , but less on the menu than a few years ago.

Touring Casas Particulares – OFAC Compliant.

Above Trinidad and it’s nearby Caribbean coastline, are the Montañas Escambray. The terrain goes up to about 1300m and is mostly a dry tropical forest.

Trinidad From Above.

There are a few small farms, privately owned throughout the mountains.

TotalAdventure spent a night in Cienfuegos, noted for it’s iconic architecture.

In the heat of an August Sunday, the city seemed empty.

But at night things livened up.

East German style bar.

Cienfuegos Atmosphere. 1950s.

The next morning TotalAdventure snorkeled in the blue Caribbean about 40km west of Cienfuegos. SEE THE VIDEO ABOVE !

Che had been at nearby Playa Giron. Bay of Pigs.

After week it was time for the 45 minute flight back to Miami. Stay tuned to http://www.venturecuba.com for upcoming trips from Miami !

May 4th
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Ahmadiyya Anjuman Isha’at Islam Mosque Keizerstraat 

TotalAdventure had hoped to come from Georgetown Guyana via land and ferry across the Corentyne River. However the ferry , only recently running again after COVID shutdown had broken down and would not be repaired for weeks. The only way to go was to fly.

Be Sure To Watch The Video Above – To Experience Suriname !

Paramaribo Airport
Lots of Red Tape !

To enter Suriname, I needed my passport, E-Visa, Yellow Fever book, Covid Vaccination, Antigen test ( taken that day) Port Declaration of Health, Proof of Health Insurance and a landing card, with name and phone number of hotel. Never has TotalAdventure had to show so many documents, not even Russia or Turkmenistan.

Finally I received the stamp and it was off to Paramaribo.

Across from my hotel on Keizerstraat. The city is mostly made up of colonial era buildings 100 to 200 years old, but have never been maintained. Built to Dutch specifications, the Equatorial heat and humidity are corrosive to the wooden structures.

The main Synagogue is next to the main Mosque of Paramaribo.

The Dutch bought in colonists and settlers from their worldwide territories Indonesian, southern African, Caribbean islanders and West African slaves all added to the mix. 13 different languages and dialects are spoken in Paramaribo, many more in the jungles.

There is a true diversity of food everywhere. Dutch/French/Caribbean combo here.

De Gadri

Indian chicken roti with West African style vegetables.

Spiciness accompanied by icy Parbo Beer.
Hindu Temple
Roman Catholic Minor Basilica

All Wooden Interior of Church.

Downtown Paramaribo
The Presidential Mansion. TotalAdventure’s Father in Law was United States Ambassador to Suriname just before independence from The Netherlands and held meetings here.
Architecture similar to New York State, South Africa and Holland itself. New York was traded for Dutch Guyana due to a peace treaty in the 17th century.
Still lived in.
Leaving Suriname for French Guiana.

An early morning ride from Paramaribo got me to the border town of Albina by 9AM. Jungle and small villages all the way. Suriname is the most forested country in the world. Many less documents were required for exit.

The ferry from Suriname to France takes about 20 minutes and costs 3.40 Euro. There is no direct flight from Cayenne to the US – one can go to Paris and fly from there , or island hop through French islands to Miami. Consequently I will return to Suriname after Cayenne.

Oct 24th
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Breakers At Isabela On The Costa Norte.

In late September,TotalAdventure decided to explore a part of the “Miami Neighborhood ” which is basically the entire Caribbean Basin. Just two hours away from Miami is the US Territorial Island of Puerto Rico. At 107 mies long and 40 miles wide, it’s perfect for a long weekend getaway. As a US Territory , it operates fairly independent of Washington.

Just off the plane , I went right to the beach at Playa Piñones. The first and last nights were spent in San Juan..Here is the Villa Herencia, charming and from the colonial era.

Surf’s Up !

Breakers near El Morro. However there is no beach there, only sharp jagged rock.

Old San Juan Is Totally Walled In
El Yunque National Forest

Just 30 miles from San Juan is El Yunque, a mountainous rainforest going up to about 4000 feet elevation. While not that high, temperatures there are much cooler than 90 degree San Juan, often remaining in the 70s during the day.

Fajardo South Of Roosevelt Roads

TotalAdventure circumnavigated half the Island in one day, arriving in Ponce by nightfall. The Eastern coast has great panoramas ,but very few hotels..

Ponce Fire Station,1893

The Colonial city of Ponce is well preserved, despite recent bombardment by Hurricanes and Earthquakes.

Ponce Cathedral

In the deadly earthquakes of 2020, an urn weighing several tons fell from the right tower. Luckily no one was under it.

Another Threat Due To Quakes Near & Distant

A great bodysurfer,TotalAdventure stopped in at Playa Rincon ,known all over the USA as a top surf spot. The waves were small right breaks onto a rocky shoreline. Waves get up to 20 feet with winter cold fronts. The cold fronts do not bring cold weather however, it stays in the 80s in January.

Playa Isabela Sunrise

Saturday night was in Isabela, on the Northwest Coast. A rustic surfer hotel,The Oceanfront was very basic, no internet, for $ 100 per night. However ,it had incredible views as seen above. I spent the entire morning bodysurfing and seeing waves crash on the cliffs as well as following sea turtles. Watch the above video carefully.

Flores,San Juan
La Perla From Distance

The final night was back in San Juan. I took a motor view of the seaside Barrio of La Perla, where cameras are strictly forbidden. The final activity was snorkeling just off El Morro, before dashing to SJU for the flight back to MIA.

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On Saturday afternoon, July 18th, I crossed over the bridge from Superior Wisconsin to Duluth Minnesota. Minnesota was my 46th State and my second new state of the day.

I spent the night in Duluth, a city of low mountains overlooking vast Lake Superior. Though the inhabitants are thoroughly American ,the city has a European look to it.

High Over Lake Superior .Port of Duluth Is Almost 2000 Miles From The Atlantic.

Iron Ore from the Iron Mountains is shipped to steel plants all over the world.

City Hall of Duluth

I stayed at Fitgers Inn, a nice splurge , located in an old brewery.

The Beer Is Pretty Good.

I stopped for lunch in Virginia,Minnesota, heart of the Iron Range.

Hello McFly ? A Town Where Time Stands Still.
Small Government is the Best Government.
The plan was to overnight in Red Lake , but the lake is located in the Sioux Nation and Tribal Elders had declared martial law in order to bar outsiders from entering.I turned around and overnighted in Bemidji instead. Bemidji is where the Mississippi River starts, not much wider than a stream
Bridge To Grand Forks

On Monday morning, July 20th, I crossed the Red River into North Dakota, my 47th State ! The Center of North America ! After an excellent Vietnamese lunch in Grand Forks, I headed out into the farmlands.

Fordville

Miles and miles of soy and beans. Some corn, but this far north there’s only one crop a year. And wheat more than anything.

Amber Waves Of Grain – By September
Back Roads All The Way . Satellite Is A Big Help
Farmer’s Breakfast

I stayed at a hunting and fishing lodge at Devil’s Lake for the night. In the morning I stopped in Esmond and breakfasted at the Esmond Cafe. I ate inside for the first time on the trip. Not one mask in sight, except mine. Everyone very friendly and for most, the first time meeting someone from Miami or New York. COVID was almost nonexistent in North Dakota then, but later the state was devastated, with about 15 % of the population sickened and one in 500 of the population killed.

North Dakota State Capitol – Bismarck

I stopped for lunch in Bismarck ,the capitol. That building is the tallest in North Dakota.

Into The West

In Dickinson I was in the real West. Changed the clock back for the second time in 3 days.

Theodore Rosevelt National Park

Theodore Roosevelt National Park is a real introduction to a western landscape. Green gives way to brown, flatlands give way to Bad Lands.

A Little Afternoon Delight On The High Plains.
Prairie Dog – Related To Gopher and Marmot.
Slots & Blackjack At Every Bar In The Dakotas
Downtown Deadwood

South of the Park, on US 85, I entered South Dakota , my 48th State ! Spent 2 nights in Deadwood, which was kind of dead, not because of COVID, which people there did not think existed, but because the drinking and gambling town shuts down at 9. Not quite Vegas !

The 4 Greatest !

No words needed to describe Mt.Rushmore. And now – it was time to ride on into Wyoming….

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On the morning of September 10th, I awoke for an early morning dip in the Pacific before heading Eastbound the the Atlantic. Pulling out of my AirBnb Santa Monica garage I was soon eastbound on the 10 and then north on 15 to Las Vegas. Most of this TransContinental Adventure has been off interstates, but they will be used into Utah and again in Texas, Oklahoma and Florida.

The Highlight of the Eastbound Cross Country Would Be Utah ,Exploring 5 National Parks.

Fires raged in the San Gabriel Mountains to the north, sending thick smoke down to I-10. Some of the smoke from all the California and Oregon fires spread all the way to the East Coast ,dimming sunrises in New Jersey. This southern smoke band would follow me. I managed to always be a day ahead of it, until Colorado where I changed my itinerary because of it.

Quick Trip Through Vegas.

Normally I would spend a night in Las Vegas, but the wide open fun loving town is a bit clamped down for the moment due to COVID. In the video you can experience a very quick trip up the Strip. I did stop for some video poker at an empty slot hall in Mesquite, Nevada and walked out $ 30 richer. From there it was about 40 miles across extreme Northwest Arizona to St.George Utah where I would spend the night. Changed from Pacific to Mountain Time.

The Gateway To Arches National Park

The next morning I was up with the sun and off to Zion National Park. It was an introduction to the the incredible Utah geology. On the way I visited Hilldale, on the Arizona border. Hilldale is the town known for the highest number of polygamous families adhering to the original Book of Mormon. I saw groups of wives out shopping together dressed in 1800s style farm dresses and driving pickups.

Bryce Canyon National Park

Bryce Canyon National Park was the next stop. Now the temperature changed drastically according to elevation. St.George had been expecting a high of 100 degrees and this evening near Bryce the temperature slipped to 32 – I was glad to have a gas fireplace in my cabin for the night.

In the morning I continued through Bryce and then headed Northeast to Teasdale where I would explore Capitol Reef National Park with an old childhood friend I grew up with in Germany. We took a 6 mile hike up a canyon.You can see all the national parks in the video at the top of the page.

Arches National Park Is Otherworldly !

The final two nights were in Moab – home to Arches National Park and Canyonlands National park. In Canyonlands the X2 did amazingly well on rugged roads, in spite of the warning signs.

Finally I turned around where a spring had flooded a section of road turning it to muck. Without 4WD,I did not want to risk spending $1000 to be towed !

South Central Utah

 Crossing from Utah into Colorado, the smoke from California finally caught up, turning skies from bright Western blue to greyish white and encasing mountains in haze – diminishing prospects for photo and video acquisition.

Telluride – Old West Town, Now A Mini -Aspen.

Highway 50 climbed rapidly higher into the Rockies and by lunchtime I had reached Telluride, for the first time in 30 years. The big changes are to be expected. What was once a laid back Wild West type town with great skiing with a few bars up and down the main drag was now clogged with tourists even in off season September – looking for parking and lining up for $ 6 lattes. Tourism was higher than in the summer when people had been more cautious of COVID.

Rocky Mountain Stream.

The second night in Colorado was spent at the home of an old friend from the East. His wife is an Olympic ski champion.

La Junta Colorado

On Friday September 18th the X2 crossed the Continental Divide. For the next 1000 miles I would be tracking the Arkansas River from its’ glacial small steam origins to the wide river flowing into the Mississippi.

Spent the night in Syracuse,Kansas . The next morning , driving across table top flat land and crossing from Mountain Time to Central Time, I entered my 50th State – Oklahoma !

Near Where Eustace and Muriel live.

I stopped for lunch in the Panhandle town of Guymon and then went on to the Texas Panhandle.

The Big Texan, Home of the Free 72 Ounce Steak.

Stopping in Amarillo for the night, I stayed next door to the Big Texan. In one of my very few indoor meals of the trip, I dined on Rocky Mountain oysters and delicious Texas T-Bone that was about 20 ounces. The 72 oz steak is free if eaten in an hour. That’s 4 1/2 pounds, 2 kilos of meat. It comes with salad and baked potato which also must be consumed. If not finished in one hour the price is $ 72.

I-40 Eastbound the next morning. Back into Oklahoma. At Oklahoma city, the California smoke finally ended and the skies were clear once again, over the rolling Southern Plains.

Bill Clinton Library Little Rock Arkansas

Spent Sunday night in quiet Little Rock and toured the Capitol city the next morning. The Clinton Library , on the Arkansas River is an architectural masterpiece but closed by COVID.

Kibb’s BBQ – Best In The Southland ?

In Stuttgart I stopped for perhaps the best BBQ I’ve ever had with chopped ribs in a sauce that tasted like plums, coffee and super hot spice ! I bought a gallon jug to take home, which I carefully rationed over the next month.

Last Stop – Sarasota Florida !

From Arkansas into Mississippi I began a straight run back to Miami. Overnighting in Hattiesburg and then through Mobile Alabama to Panama City Florida for a swim in the Gulf of Mexico. Across the beautiful Panhandle . Though TotalAdventure has been located in Miami for over 18 years, I have never been to the Panhandle. Overnighted in Perry and then to Sarasota, a surprisingly young and thriving town on the Gulf of Mexico.

Back to Miami for a dive into the Atlantic Ocean. Watch the video above !

Jul 14th
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Click For A Fast Tour Of Dubai !

After leaving Asmara, Eritrea, a city locked in a 1930s Time Warp, TotalAdventure flew to Dubai, United Arab Emirates, where it seems already to be 2040. On the first evening we went to the top of 2700 ft. 0.8km Burj Khalifa, formerly known as Burj Dubai.

The view from the top deck, on the 148th floor.

Looking out over the Persian Gulf. ON a clear day you can see Iran.

High Speed dune buggies are a great desert pastime.

In a Land of the Future, echoes of the past.

A view from a Cigarette Boat.

The best choice of Middle East cuisine anywhere. Here is Sheep Head, at an Iraqi restaurant.

Although surrounded by Saudi Arabia, alcohol is served in international hotel bars and nightclubs, but not in public areas. Instead, enjoy a strong hot tea with your meal !

From Dubai ,TotalAdventure returned to the united States. THis was to be the first of may international trips this year, touching every continent except Antartica. The worldwide epidemic has postponed that temporarily and we will be exploring the United States instead.