WATCH THE VIDEO ABOVE !

On the cold spring morning of October 4th TotalAdventure arrived in Santiago, Chile on the way to three separate adventures in the 6000 kilometer long nation. After spending the weekend with a boarding school friend, I was joined a pre-Adventure of the Adveneture Travel World Summit in Cajon de Maipo , a beautiful mountain region just west of Santiago. The theme was adventure in the countryside, followed by two days of exploring Chile’s capitol.

Our Adventure Crew. Names and links to companies will soon be listed here.

Our first activity was rafting down the Rio Maipo. The rapids were fast, about Class 3 ,withspring snowmelt from the glacial mountains. The runoff is dark with sediment and doesn’t slow down until summer in December. Company : NatExplora. WATCH THE VIDEO ABOVE FOR EXCELLENT RAFTING FOOTAGE !

That night we drove up to 2500 meters to observe the Southern Hemispher stars – three times as many as are visible in the Northern Hemisphere. While I was not able to capture photos through the telescope lens – I did see the rings of Saturn for the first time !

The next morning was canyoneering – rappelling down the side of waterfalls .

We drove high into the valleys ,where strong October spring sunshine melted the snow above. Just a few days before the snow levels had reached down to our level.

A panorama shot of the valley.

Though were are at 9000 feet, 2700m the terrain was once part of a seabed.

Evening festivities at the local community center of Maipo.

Like the USA, German heritage is common in Chile.

In a small valley village.

East towards the glaciers.

Our group enjoyed many local festivities and the excellent wine of the region. Soft adventure here.

A view from the room at Cascada de Las Ánimas. Much like a treehouse looking at the surrounding forest and mountains, with decent WiFi.

The very cold pool which apparently warms in summer.

We descended from the mountains to the vineyards.One of the world’s largest producers – Santa Rita.

They have a historic museum with ancient Inca artifacts – Here – a cuy.

Nearly 40 years old !

The hotel features a billiards room.

A chapel.

A gourmand dining room.

A lunch worthy of a Michelin Star.

A palette to Japan.

After lunch , a tasting of the whites. We had Tinto ( Red) with lunch.

We arrived back in the capitol on time for sunset from the top of Latin America’s tallest tower – Sky Costañera – 300 meters – 980feet 82 stories tall. Impressive for a major earthquake zone ! VIIEW THE VIDEO AT THE TOP !

From the 82nd Floor of Sky Costañera.

La Moneda – The Presidential Palace.

Many Cathedrals dominate this Catholic City.

On Sunday, October 12, predawn transport to the airport, thistime the domestic side, for our 4000 km 4 hour flight to Puerto Natales for the Adventure Travel World Summit.

WATCH THE VIDEO ABOVE !

On Sunday October 12 TotalAdventure soared over the Andes, above the Patagonian Icefields , the world’s largest in the temperate zones, for a 4 hour flight from Santiago to Puerto Natales.

Over 700 delegates from all 7 continents flew in to this remote spot on the Planet to take part in the 20th Adventure Travel World Summit . TotalAdventure took part as a buyer. We buy trips to sell to our worldwide following of adventurers. TotalAdventure has been to over half of the ATWS events – Seattle 2006, Whistler 2007, São Paulo 2008, Lucerne 2012, Swakopmund 2013, Puerto Varas 2015, Anchorage 2016,Salta 2017, Gothenburg 2019,Sapporo 2023 and now, Puerto Natales for 2025. 2026 is in Quebec City.

Shannon Stowell is Our Leader. of the Adventure Travel Trade Association. He estimates about 50,000 Adventure Travel leaders have taken part in events over the years. The industry is estimated to generate $1.16 Trillion in revenue annually worldwide generating many millions of jobs. Tourism is the 2nd largest source of jobs in many countries, especially poorer ones. The ATTA’s message is one of sustainability . Travel enterprises should have minimal effect on the environment, recycle and reuse whenever possible, hire local people as guides and storytellers. Most members are small entrepreneurial companies.

One of the main events at ATWS is the marketplace. Agents and providers meet each other to sell amazing worldwide experiences.TotalAdventure had 30 meetings leading to 18 new listings. Here I meet with Pia Abboud of Discovery Beyond Borders, Lebanon.

I first came to the Far South of Patagonia in February, 1991. I drove to Puerto Natales from Rio Gallegos, Argentina. I was one of 5 cars to cross the border that day. This photo is on Glaciar Moreno in El Calfate, Argentina. 35 years later, I am happy to report that the nature has not been changed much – due to strict and well planned conservation and sustainable tourism. Of course there are many more hotels, restaurants and tour companies catering to adventurous travelers from all over the world. Also technology is far more advanced. That’s a Sony Hi-8 video camera – considered quite advanced for the time with 480 lines . I had a custom made battery belt that powered it all day. To edit, I had to rent a $ 200 per hour studio in New York. Now I shoot on a GoPro 12 with up to 5300 lines and edit on my MacBook Air with FinalCut Pro.

My next trip here, in September 2022 , for Adventure Next took me on the 4 day W Trek. You can read about it HERE.

TotalAdventure has explored 106 countries. Torres del Paine is perhaps the most beautiful place on Earth. Torres del Paine is the broken end of the Andes, stretching 12000 miles North to Alaska via the Rockies.

Empty land makes for pure mountain rivers going from glacier, to lake to river to another lake and eventually into the icy Pacific.

The water runs very fast and very cold. SEE THE VIDEO AT THE TOP OF THE ARTICLE.

Tens of thousands of gallons per minute.

ATWS held a huge welcoming party at Torres del Paine National Park. A huge asado of local lamb was amazing – eaten right off the bone, Large helpings of pisco helped attendees endure the numbing cold, rain and sleet.

For our entertainment – Chile’s top band – Los Jaivas !

A small cottage along the fjords of Puerto Natales. Firewood is needed year round.

The weather never truly warms up due to proximity to Antarctica and a frigid ocean. He we see the southernmost reaches of the Pacific Ocean. When people think of the South Pacific, they imagine palm fringed tropical paradises. Not here. October is spring but still 3 C with 60 kph winds. The fjords often have floating ice chunks . wWnter lows in July can be -22C 0 F and in summer rarely goes above 22 C 72 F.

51 43 South.

Parihuela- a seafood stew of local delicacies.

Swans and their offspring.

Downtown Puerto Natales.

From Puerto Natales it is not possible to drive to the rest of the country without driving though Argentina. Navimag Ferries take cars and people on an amazing two day journey to Puerto Montt through stunning fjords.

From Puerto Natales, TotalAdventure flew North to Puerto Montt for the third and final phase of Adventures in Chile.

WATCH THE VIDEO ABOVE !

On Saturday October 18, at the conclusion of the Adventure Travel World Summit in Puerto Natales, Chile, TotalAdventure flew 2 hours north to Puerto Montt, with other delegates, where we were greeted by Scarlett Riquelme of Mawida Adventures. From the airport, we departed for Huilo Huilo Reserva Biólogica a vast privately held expanse of 60,000 hectares of forest,lakes,waterfalls, hot springs and the volcanic Andes Mountains.

The Northernmost region of Chilean Patagonia from 40 to 38 South Latitude, and 72 to 73 West Longitude.

We arrived at the amazing Huilo Huilo Hotel,where we would reside the next two nights. The hotel is huge with wild architecture, yet blends in perfectly with the huge silent forest around it.

Private Balcony In The Forest.

After a morning hike by the waterfalls, our group took an amazing fast boat ride on Lago Pirihueco. The lake is part of the Ruta Lagos Y Volcanes. You can experience the motion in THE VIDEO UP TOP.

Guanacos graze peacefully within the Preserve.

Our Group. of Travel Professionals. The women were faster hikers than the men.

Huilo Huilo Sunset.

An evening foray into the reserve to view the waterfalls under lights. October water volume is very high due to spring snowmelt.

By summer the water slows to a trickle.

We descended steep slippery trails with headlamps.

From Huilo Huilo, our adventurers moved North, towards Pucón.On the way we bathed in the very hot springs of the Termas Geométricas. There were many pools, ranging in temperature from 37 to 44 C. The water felt great on a cold 8 C rainy day.

The next 3 nights were at the beautiful boutique Hotel Aldea Naukana in Pucón.

The Mapuche Tribe are the original people of Central and Southern Chile. Despite challenges from European invaders and settlers, their culture has remained intact, with some modern conveniences. We spent a morning in a small village learning from one of the elders.

A traditional lodge,where we dined inside.

Bread is prepared in the firepit.

We played Palin, a game very similar to field hockey.

Now the real adventure begins. Class 3 rapids on the Rio Trancura.

SEE THE VIDEO UP TOP TO EXPERIENCE IN MOTION !

Spring Snowmelt – Water is 7 C. ( 45 American temperature)

A Roller Coaster Ride.

On the final day we ascended Villarrica Volcano, 2860 M , 9380 Feet. One of Chile’s most active volcanoes, the last major eruption was in 2015, with a plume of lava and ash just last year in 2024. The Andes are actually part of a 12000 mile chain of mountains beginning in Alaska and ending at the Drake passage. The Ring of Fire, around the Pacific Rim, is largely volcanic.

Warning !

Experienced guides lead the expedition.

The early morning cold ,about -2 C made the snow crunchy and icy. By nid morning it has softened in the strong spring sunshine.

Only 4 Kilometers, but takes several hours due to 45 degree slope.Many people ski up and down, which is much faster.

Once again, the women were in the lead. The summit was reached by mid day. SEE THE VIDEO AT THE START OF THE ARTICLE.

Mawida Adventures ( TotalAdventure Logo is automatically stamped on all media) is the leading agency for adventure in the Pucón Region. Right now Mawida offers an amazing trip : Volcano Trilogy. The next trip is from December 1st to December 7th . Enjoy the long sunny Southern Hemisphere summer days as you experience the adventures above, but with three volcanoes ! $ 2576 US. Contact Us Directly with any questions.

WATCH THE VIDEO ABOVE ! IT’S REAL ECUADOR !

On August 27th TotalAdventure landed in Quito Ecuador . While TotalAdventure has crossed the Equator at least 50 times, I had never stood on the line itself.

At Mitad del Mundo -Middle Of The World. On my left side it is Winter. On my right side it is Summer. Even with the direct overhead sunlight, the altitude is 2500 meters – 8125 feet. The temperature rarely goes over 21 C or 70 F and st night – cold enough for a jacket, it is about 7 C or 45 F. The temperature is the same all year, with varying periods of rainfall. In Ecuador’s jungles and on the beaches, it is always hot – 32 C 90F every day of the year.

An egg balances perfectly on a nail . Geomagnetic forces allow what cannot be done anywhere else on Earth.

TotalAdventure, along with adventure tour provders,buyers and members of the press had been invited by the Adventure Travel Trade Association , Tht Ecuador Ministry of Tourism and Visit Cuenca to take part in AdventureNext , an adventure travel coinference that takes place in a different part of the world every year. For 4 days before the confernce we were hosted on an adventure called Avenue of the Volcanoes. The excellent trip was led by Amazing Ecuador. The morning after arrival, we left Quito and headed south for our 4 day adventure towards Cuenca.

The first night we stayed at Hacienda La Alegria. After a cold rainy hike above 13000 feet earlier in the day, we enjoyed warm moonshine around the fire before a hearty dinner.

Learning the long family history of the Hacienda.

Seafood stew from coastal Ecuador.

The next morning was horseback riding about 12 kilometers up to some spectacular views. TotalAdventure’s horse was quite feisty and I’m glad to be an experienced rider. SEE THE VIDEO AT THE TOP OF THE ARTICLE.

From the Valley we ascended to Cotopaxi National Park. Cotopaxi, a volcano that last erupted in 2023, is still steaming as you can see in the photo above. It is 19,347 F 5952 M rising 7882 F 2425 M above our elevation. Apparently it can be climbed in one day, starting the night before.

No one in our group had problems with altitude – we were at 3000 to 4000 meters almost all the time for 4 days. But if someone did have a problem, they could buy some oxygen.

That evening we arrived at Hacienda La Cienaga . The hotel is over 300 years old. Alexander Humboldt once slept there.

Like many haciendas, a chapel serves as a place of refuge.

Time stands still at La Cienaga. The clock is right twice a day.

On the morning of Saturday the 30th we toured Success Rose Farm. A huge operation with massive sheds creating 35 varieties of perfect roses.

Each rose is swaddled to create a perfect shape.Extremely labor intensive.

Once picked and packed, the roses are flown 4 hours North to Miami – where the shipments are divided and sent all over the USA. They can be in a New York florist shop by the next morning.

Cotopaxi in the distance.

We then explored the market town of Zumbahua.

Lago Quilatoa . A caldera created by a giant explosion thousands of years ago. Elevation 3914 M 12841 F. SEE THE VIDEO AT TOP OF ARTICLE !

Photo Credit : Fer Rodriguez Intrepid Travel.

Kayaking the icy waters. Photo Credit : Joy Martinello Wild Nectar Collection

TotalAdventure believes in enjoying all local foods, no matter how unusual. After the kayaking we were invited to an Andean feast,where the main dish was Cuy – Guinea Pig. A common pet in the United States – it is dinner in Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia. The meat is tasty with nice crispy skin . It reminded me of another rodent I had eaten – Marmot in Mongolia.

There are over 300 varieties of potatoes in Ecuador.

And 200 varieties of corn.

Artisan Collective Mask. Made of clay, too fragile to transport.

In Riobamba that night at Hacienda Abraspungo it was cold outside but warm in my abode with a crackling fire. I put enough wood on to last hours.

Morning sunlight warms the room.

A woman and her llama.

Maria Natividad de Balbanera , the oldest church in Ecuador, built in 1534.

The Puhara Tribe artwork.

Ingapirca ruins, Ecuador’s most important Inca ruins. Built around 500 AD.

It was an important military command post.

Ecuador – In the Middle of The World.

On Sunday Night, August 31st, we arrived in Cuenca for Adventure Next.

The next day, September 1st, we hiked in Cajas National Park, at nearly 14000 feet in wet windy temperatures of 3 C 37 F. The hike was about 10 km , slow due to steep downhill with loose gravel and deep mud on flat land.

Alpine flowers 2 degrees south of the Equator.

MINTUR Ecuador and Visit Cuenca had a huge welcoming party for Adventure NEXT that went outdoors to entertain everyone ! The fireworks were among the more unusual that TotalAdventure has ever experienced.

The US Dollar is the legal tender for Ecuador. Overall prices for basic goods are similar to the US and Western Europe ,while hotels and dining are cheaper.. Do not bring 50s and 100s, , businesses prefer 10s and 20s.

Most world citizens do not require a visa – but check according to your country. Quito and Guauaquil are only 4 hours from Miami !

WATCH THE VIDEO ABOVE ! IT’S AMAZING !

From November 30 to December 8,2023 TotalAdventure was the guest of The Adventure Travel Trade Association, PromPerú and APTAE for an exploration of Southern Peru from the high Andes to the desert beaches of the South Pacific Ocean. The trip was led by Apumayo Expedicones and Colca Trek.

The trip began and ended in Arequipa, Peru’s second largest city ,with a population of just over a million. TotalAdventure first passed through the city in 1988, as a reporter cover the Trans Amazon Rallye.. Though better conditions now prevail,many of the roads were familiar.

General area of the expedition. Lima Peru is only a five hour flight from Miami.

From Arequipa, Elevation 2300 meters we drove quickly up to 5000 meters where the oxygen is thin and temperature cold, slightly above freezing.

We stopped in the town of Chivay where we were welcomed by the local tourism committees. SEE THE VIDEO AT THE TOP OF THE PAGE !

Overnight was at Colca Trek Lodge . The rooms were comfortable and the night was very cold – close to 0 C. Thankfully there was a blazing fireplace in the bar.

In the morning we went to observe Condors drifting above the Canyon. Then we biked downhill very fast for about 20 km. SEE THE VIDEO AT THE TOP OF THE PAGE ! Afterwards the team traversed the Colca Canyon dropping down over 2500 meters to the river itself.

Mid day sun directly over the Colca River. Early December in Southern Peru is the strongest sun on Earth.

Coca leaf is completely legal and is chewed or taken as a tea. It helps for altitude fatigue and commonly used by everyone. This is the legitimate use. For the illegal use, three kilos of leaves, about a garbage bag full, are required to distill one gram of the isolated alkaloid.

Andagua Homestay.

The night was spent in a private house where it was again, very cold. The sun comes up at 5 – breaking the cold ,time to enjoy coffee with an inquisitive cat.

Again we drove to 5000 meters -over 16,000 feet. The snow is perpetual on the glaciated mountaintops that are 6500 meters.

The beautiful shot above, of a glacial lake below the Coropuna Volcano. Credit : Jehiel Boner of Tripsite. The TotalAdventure logo is automatic, but the photo belongs to the photographer.

El Misti.

Afterwards we dropped down 13000 feet intoa warm dry valley to dine at Hacienda Ongoro. Above – freshwater crawfish.

Jefe Chef.

Hominy on the Cob. The Andes are home to over 200 varieties of corn and 2000 types of potato. When the Spanish bought these staples home, European cuisine changed completely.

At one of the driest spots on earth – where it last rained in 1941, we explored petroglyphs from the 12th century. the pictures tell a story – similar to the very large ones at Nazca – 200 km North.

When TotalAdventure flew above Nazca in 1988, the concept of Space People became very convincing.

At last it was time to move on to the clear, cold Pacific Ocean. Our route was slightly detoured due to a small 4.2 quake that morning ( woke to that) which had caused a rock side on the road.

Caleta San Jose,. A place so exclusive – it is almost impossible to get to. SEE THE VIDEO ABOVE to experience the insane ride to the desert beach.

Playa y Pacifico Panorama.

The water is clear and about 18 C. 65 F. The Humboldt Current from Antarctica keeps things cool. Winters can be foggy – we were there for the start of summer, so the sun came out around 9 AM.

After dinner discussion.

Followed by a bonfire on the beach.

TotalAdventure ,having spent most of life by the sea, could easily adapt to life here, with fresh fish and uni from the surf every day, nightly bonfires and clear weather.

It was time to return to Arequipa, where TotalAdventure had over 30 meetings with excellent Peruvian Adventure providers. many of whom will soon be selling on TotalAdvnenture.

Alpaca – It’s What’s For Dinner !

This article is the first of a two part story – where TotalAdventure explores the southernmost reaches of the inhabited world. TotalAdventure was invited by the Adventure Travel Trade Association and SERNATUR ( Chile Ministry of Tourism) to joining two expeditions – one in Torres del Paine National Park – more detail in the next article and another engaging in other activities on Estancias and in the vast preserves of nature. SERNATUR paid for air travel and other essentials. The trips I joined were run by Chile Nativo. Besides exploring the incredible nature of the region – we met with 25 companies chosen to work with us to sell their packages on TotalAdventure. 32 other buyers , along with press , were invited to promote the pristine unspoiled remote areas of Chilean Patagonia , the Strait of Magellan – the Gateway To The Antarctic.

TotalAdventure has been commuting to the Southern Cone this year. First, 8 hours to Santiago. Then another 4 hours down to Puerto Natales.

To El Fin Del Mundo – The End Of The World.

From Summer To Winter.

Where The Guanacos Roam.

Stripped Clean By Pumas.

Rheas, A Smaller Version Of The South African Ostrich.

Argentina Border. In order to drive to other parts of Chile, one must drive over 1600 km through Argentina. Chile is almost all islands or impassable glaciers and forest from Puerto Natales to Puerto Montt. Relations between the two competing Latin giants are cordial ,but not always friendly.

We spent the day at Estancia Cerro Guido, very near the Argentine border crossing at Río Don Guillermo. The Estancia has huge herds of sheep, and allows visitors to experience daily life on the Patagonian steppes.

The sheep are very wooly by winter’s end.

It’s time for a haircut. While the ewe is mildly annoyed, there is no pain. It can be dangerous for the wool to get too thick and heavy. In freezing rain and heavy snow, the animals can’t move and can die of cold. This past winter ( May to October) was the coldest and snowiest in many years – the Estancia had to rescue some herds .

The wool is shipped all over the world to be made into high quality sweaters, dresses, socks and hats.

Lunch at Estancia Cerro Guido. Parilla del Cordero. ( Lamb ) A guest might enjoy this daily.

View From On High – Towards Torres Del Paine.

The next day, outside of Puerto Natales we rode horses up Cerro Dorotea. The outfit was not totally my choice. The horses were well tempered and responsive to more experienced riders, such as myself.

Led by Guachos – Born In The Saddle !

A warm fire at the mountaintop. It was sleeting at the top.

Patagonia Before The European Settlers.

On the final day, before sales meetings began, we boarded a cruiser for an expedition through Fjord Ultima Esperanza to Glaciar Balmaceda, about 50 km from Puerto Natales.

The saltwater fjord extends a long way from the Pacific.

Seals live in caves along the cliffs.

Mother And Pup.

The days are spent fishing and getting some late winter sunshine.

A low flying bird . The caracara ? Ornithologists  please let us know..

I’ll Have A Grant’s . On 3000 Year Old Glacier Rocks Please.

Abstract Nature.

The Explorer At Work.

Glacial Waters spilling into the fjord.

Purest Water Anywhere !

Down From Glaciar Balmaceda.

Bandera de Patagonia.

Magellanic Penguins Live On The Cliffs – Safe From Seals.

Outdoors Adventures Concluded – At the Hotel Rio Serrano we were greeted with an incredible Parillada de Cordero. The next two days were spent meeting with 25 local adventure providers – all of whom we hope sell adventures on TotalAdventure Chile Nativo already is !.

Beautiful warm pool, with nearby saunas, whirlpools and gym to warm up after a day on the glaciers !

All too soon, the adventures came to a close and it was time to head to the airport. Observed outside at a roadside cafe – two sheepdogs entertaining themselves.

From Punta Arenas it’s a 4 1/2 hour flight to Santiago, where I had a 7 hour layover, so went into the city to have dinner with a friend. After a connecting flight through Bogotá on Avianca, I was back in Miami the next afternoon. Punta Arenas is the second most southerly commercial airport in the world – with actual flights to Antarctica – about 800 mies south.

I first came to the Far South of Patagonia in February, 1991. I drove to Puerto Natales from Rio Gallegos, Argentina. I was one of 5 cars to cross the border that day. This photo is on Glaciar Moreno in El Calfate, Argentina. 31 years later, I am happy to report that the nature has not been changed much – due to strict and well planned conservation and sustainable tourism. Of course there are many more hotels, restaurants and tour companies catering to adventurous travelers from all over the world. Also technology is far more advanced. That’s a Sony Hi-8 video camera – considered quite advanced for the time with 480 lines . I had a custom made battery belt that powered it all day. To edit, I had to rent a $ 200 per hour studio in New York. Now I shoot on a GoPro 10 with up to 5300 lines and edit on my MacBook Pro. It was great to be back – stay tuned for TotalAdventure’s return to Tierra del Fuego and onwards to Antarctica next month – December 2022 !

In Late July TotalAdventure was invited to take part in AdventureNEXT Patagonia by the Adventure Travel Trade Association and SERNATUR – the marketing section of the Chile Ministry of Tourism. 32 Adventure Travel marketers were invited from all over the world to experience far-off, far South Chilean Patagonia.

12 of us were chosen to participate on the rugged World Famous – “W Trek” an extensive 4 day hike through Torres del Paine National Park. The trip was with Chile Nativo.

The adventure began the night of Labor Day . 8 hours on the LATAM flight bought us from a humid 90 ( 32C) degree night in Miami to a bright late winter morning in Santiago. There, it was 38 (3C) degrees.

4 hours more on Sky Air bought us to Puerto Natales. Latitude 52 South . As we go off the plane it was snowing, with fresh snow on the ground and 0 C 32F. After a night relaxing and dining at Hotel Lago Grey , we we boarded a ferry to take us about 15 km to Grey Glacier at the other end of the lake.

Grey Glacier is a tongue of the Patagonian Ice Sheet – the world’s third largest after nearby Antarctica and Greenland.

The lake it melts and calves into is a constant 2 C – a person will die in just a few minutes if they fall in – losing consciousness after 2 minutes.

After we left the ferry ( see video) our Group dropped off our things at camp. The tents were already set up. It was super-cold – note the frost signifying subfreezing temperatures at mid day.

Above us and about 20 km distant, are the Torres del Paine. 9800 feet 3015m high, formed by magma ejecting upwards from under the Earth. Many think these mountains and rock formations are the end of the Andes. They are not ! This is the Paine Mountain Range, formed just 1 million years ago, not 64 million like the Andes.

A glacial tongue/

We ate our excellent lunch, packed by Hotel Lago Grey on top of a rock escarpment overlooking the glacier.

After lunch it was time to kayak. Everyone got suited up and went off exploring the icebergs. Big Foot Patagonia runs the excursions with all equipment. Credit:

We endured a very chilly night in the tents. Even with down sleeping bags it was cold. We had a hearty breakfast in the morning inside the camp shelter. The sun does not rise until almost 9 AM in September , so it was still like night.

Thursday, September 9th, began with a 5 hour trek across Glaciar Grey. Followed afterwards by a 12 km hike to the next camp.

Under the guidance of Big Foot Patagonia. Credit:

It is a long rocky uphill hike just to get to the glacier. Credit :

Across the crevasse . Credit :

After getting off the ice, it was time to hike to the next camp. The group did not arrive till evening and then it was off to sleep.

The third day was truly magnificent. The skies were mostly clear, with warmer temperatures.

At The Foot Of Cuernos del Paine. Credit :

Onwards & Upwards ! Credit :

Los Torres From Lago Pehoe.

Los Torres From The Lookout Point, after an 18 km hike.

Imagine Skiing Through The Chute – could be done with a hang glider for the cliff down below. The tallest of the Cuernos del Paine was only recently climbed for the first time ever. The rock is soft and chalky – making it very dangerous to hammer in pitons.

Te final day led to a luxurious hotel – welcome after camping out.

Sunset In Puerto Natales. There For A Night Before Exploring The Fjords.

This past July,2022 I flew from the sultry tropics of Miami to the cool windy streets of Buenos Aires and on up to Salta, where I met a very good friend from São Paulo. Above are winter vineyards – resting from the warm months of producing amazing Malbec.

We met in Salta and spent the night there. As it was winter vacation, the city was packed with tourists from colder parts of Argentina, though it was pretty cold there on the day of arrival.

The High Desert. Just over the Andes from the Chilean Atacama, it’s a very dry part of the world. See the video above for the real experience.

Downtown Cafayate.

In addition to excellent Malbec, grappa is produced by fermenting whole grapes.

I dipped a ladle in the jar to sample. Real firewater !

Cafayate Town.

Then back to relax at Estancia Patios de Cafayate. Our room was palatial – see it in the video above. Because of the strong dollar – it cost less than when I was here in 2008.

The washrooms are as big as an average New York apartment. With a whirlpool tub to relax after a couple hours on horseback.

A warm evening fire – set during wine tasting.

Before returning to Buenos Aires, we drove North to Punamarca in Jujuy Province. High desert at 2500 meters, but hot sunshine with temperatures near 25 C.

Flying South To Aeroparque Buenos Aires.

A classic Argentina scene . Soon to be on the dinner plates of the best steak houses in the world.

For Example, La Brigada in San Telmo , Buenos Aires.

Where the Bife de Chorizo is so tender you can cut it with a spoon.

La Cabaña.

And Don Julio – considered now the Best In The World.

The Dollar is King in Argentina. When I arrived the rate was 260 pesos to the dollar on the Blue Market. ( Official rate was 135) When I left 12 days later it was 340 – a 40% increase in value. The above steak dinners were as low as $ 15 to 20 ( not Don Julio) and taxi rides are about $ 2. The peso has since stabilized, but now is a great time to visit Argentina. You need to pay in cash – credit cards are charged at the official rate.

At La Rural – Annual Cattle Show in Buenos Aires. Photo – Daniele Puharre

La Rural. Photo – Daniele Puharre

We also visited the Evita Peron Museum. I have Argentine friends on both sides of the political divide, so I will not take sides here. However we still live in a world of personality cults and unrivaled power by one ( or two) person – this has no place in a democracy.

Roadside in Salta Province.

Incredible Apartment or Office !

A Beautiful Last Evening Before Heading Up To Paraguay.

Click To See And Book Adventures In Argentina

On the morning of January 22, 2022 , TotalAdventure left US territory for the first time in almost 2 years on a 3.5 hour flight from Miami to Medellín .

After a great weekend – it’s time to head south to Cali and the Colombian Pacific.

TotalAdventure flew from Cali to Santa Marta – from the Pacific to the Atlantic in one day. Arriving in Santa Marta at night I had a swim in the pool, then off to the Old City for supper. Now a laid back tourist town – where the barren brown Andes meet the Caribbean – Santa Marta was the main trans shipment point for cocaine to Miami back in the late 1970s and early 1980s.

In Santa Marta, I attempted to rent a 4X4 pickup tuck, but all that was available was a little eggbeater of some Kia sort of car. I then set off for the wilds of La Guajira.

Rafael Ortiz Art.

After 11 Days in Colombia, TotalAdventure returned to Miami on the 2hour, 45 minute flight. flight – around the same time as to go to New York from Miami. Note the plane boards from both front and back – 15 minutes total as opposed to 45 minutes in the States.