Archive for the 'Caribbean' Category

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WATCH THE VIDEO ABOVE !

On January 31,2024 TotalAdventure landed in Managua,Nicaragua and accomplished the goal of having set foot in, and explored, all the mainland countries of the Western Hemisphere. Nicaragua was the final piece of the puzzle, so to speak.

In total 3 countries in North America, 6 countries in Central America and 12 countries and one French Department in South America. There are still several island nations in the Caribbean to visit, but we are counting only the mainland here.

From the airport we went to spend the evening in the old colonial capital of Granada The next morning, February 1, we departed at 5 AM to make the 8 AM ferry to the volcanic Isla Ometepe in Lago Nicaragua.

The Lake is the 19th largest in the world. At one point it was part of the Pacific Ocean. Over hundreds of thousands of years, land formed between this gulf and the open ocean,cutting off sharks ,rays and other salt water fish. Over the years rain slowly changed the water from salt to fresh. The sea creatures slowly adapted. Lago Nicaragua is home to the world’s only freshwater sharks !

February is warm and dry, with strong East winds from the Caribbean Atlantic side of the Isthmus.

Concepción Volcano is 5280 feet,3260m and is a smoking volcano, but not actively spewing lava. THe other volcano on the island is dormant.

A view from the military airport.

The beautiful pool at our hotel overlooking the lake.

El “Che Guevara ” our car ferry to the island.

Comrade Ortega. A thorn in the side of US Foreign Policy for 50 years.

Roadside lunch. Rice, pork and platanos. Seated , Texan William Fitch and Driver Uriél – who is highly recommended and knows all of Nicaragua.

Back on the mainland, we headed for the Pacific Coast.

We arrived in time for sunset at San Juan del Sur.

Winter waves are not so high, but we did manage to catch some 3 or 4 footers bodysurfing. Many bring surfboards. SEE THE VIDEO ABOVE FOR MORE WAVE ACTION !

A typical seaside lunch, Grouper or snapper. fried to a crisp.

Playa San Juan del Sur is not that great, but is nearby to many beautiful surfing beaches.

The town boasts an amazing night scene that goes until sunrise. A beer is $ 2.

Afterwards, as our Texan friend went South to Costa Rica , for some excellent fishing which will be posted later, TotalAdventure went up the coast to Playa Popoyo and stayed at the excellent 99Surf Lodge.

Looking towards the Philippines 10,000 km west.

One sleeps well with the sound of waves through the night.

The final day and evening was in Managua, a sleepy capital overlooking the Lake. It is rundown from years of war, earthquakes and “socialism.”

Conrade Chavez overlooks an allied city. A dead philosophy follows dead leaders.

However, capitalist pastimes like gambling are popular in the socialist city.

Off the Caribbean coast of Nicaragua – Corn Island – great for diving and snorkeling.

Oct 6th
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TotalAdventure and VentureCuba returned to Havana after a 4 year hiatus this past August. When we last departed in May, 2019 , just after the Havana International Tourism Fair, attended by thousands, plans were on to start cultural and adventure tours later that year.

Then two unfortunate situations derailed those plans. First, a certain hot-headed State Department official convinced a vote – hungry (ie.Miami vote) President ,who himself once wanted to build casinos in Cuba, to totally reverse all Obama era openings across the Florida Straits. No one was happier than Vladimir Putin ! While entry by US citizens was never prohibited, cruise ships were cancelled mid -journey , with over 100,000 reservations cancelled, and flights to cities other than Havana were prohibited – totally eviscerating our itineraries which would entail days of driving rather than quick flights from Miami.

At the same time COVID came along . With limited health facilities , Cuba issued draconian decrees, confining people to their homes except to go out to try to find scarce food supplies. Places of employment and private businesses closed. Land and sea borders were closed for two years. Tourism, of course, was non existent.

Havana commerce and tourist crowds were a shadow of the bustling days of 2015 to 2019. Once noisy colonial squares were dark and eerie during the night. Many hotels were shuttered or running at 20% occupancy. Flights to Mexico are packed with passengers bearing one -way tickets -eventually getting to the US – an unwanted side effect of the anti-immigration President’s policies.

But enough of politics ! Many Cubans have opened up new businesses . Pizza parlors and barber shops run out of private homes are bustling. Let’s check out some highlights around Havana.

One of the better kept buildings. Many are in even worse repair than before.

Model Shoot !

El Capitolo.

One of our rides – a ’48 Chevy.

Retro Restaurant.

Kids here actually play outside ! While 78% of the population now has a smartphone, children don’t seem to be as addicted to them.

Enjoying A Cohiba Robusto at the Hotel Nacional. We did not stay there, just stopped in for a Puro.

TotalAdventure Hotel Room At Bahia Lofts. OFAC Compliant. Duplex with balcony for about US 100 per night.

Late Night In A Back Alley.

Time Is Still Standing Still.

After 3 days of meetings with tourism officials in Havana, we spent part of the weekend in Trinidad – a 4 hour drive away. This was the one town we saw more visitors – mostly younger, from Spain or Italy. You can see more pictures in earlier TotalAdventure Magazine posts about Cuba. There are quite a few good restaurants , but less on the menu than a few years ago.

Touring Casas Particulares – OFAC Compliant.

Above Trinidad and it’s nearby Caribbean coastline, are the Montañas Escambray. The terrain goes up to about 1300m and is mostly a dry tropical forest.

Trinidad From Above.

There are a few small farms, privately owned throughout the mountains.

TotalAdventure spent a night in Cienfuegos, noted for it’s iconic architecture.

In the heat of an August Sunday, the city seemed empty.

But at night things livened up.

East German style bar.

Cienfuegos Atmosphere. 1950s.

The next morning TotalAdventure snorkeled in the blue Caribbean about 40km west of Cienfuegos. SEE THE VIDEO ABOVE !

Che had been at nearby Playa Giron. Bay of Pigs.

After week it was time for the 45 minute flight back to Miami. Stay tuned to http://www.venturecuba.com for upcoming trips from Miami !

Oct 24th
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Breakers At Isabela On The Costa Norte.

In late September,TotalAdventure decided to explore a part of the “Miami Neighborhood ” which is basically the entire Caribbean Basin. Just two hours away from Miami is the US Territorial Island of Puerto Rico. At 107 mies long and 40 miles wide, it’s perfect for a long weekend getaway. As a US Territory , it operates fairly independent of Washington.

Just off the plane , I went right to the beach at Playa Piñones. The first and last nights were spent in San Juan..Here is the Villa Herencia, charming and from the colonial era.

Surf’s Up !

Breakers near El Morro. However there is no beach there, only sharp jagged rock.

Old San Juan Is Totally Walled In
El Yunque National Forest

Just 30 miles from San Juan is El Yunque, a mountainous rainforest going up to about 4000 feet elevation. While not that high, temperatures there are much cooler than 90 degree San Juan, often remaining in the 70s during the day.

Fajardo South Of Roosevelt Roads

TotalAdventure circumnavigated half the Island in one day, arriving in Ponce by nightfall. The Eastern coast has great panoramas ,but very few hotels..

Ponce Fire Station,1893

The Colonial city of Ponce is well preserved, despite recent bombardment by Hurricanes and Earthquakes.

Ponce Cathedral

In the deadly earthquakes of 2020, an urn weighing several tons fell from the right tower. Luckily no one was under it.

Another Threat Due To Quakes Near & Distant

A great bodysurfer,TotalAdventure stopped in at Playa Rincon ,known all over the USA as a top surf spot. The waves were small right breaks onto a rocky shoreline. Waves get up to 20 feet with winter cold fronts. The cold fronts do not bring cold weather however, it stays in the 80s in January.

Playa Isabela Sunrise

Saturday night was in Isabela, on the Northwest Coast. A rustic surfer hotel,The Oceanfront was very basic, no internet, for $ 100 per night. However ,it had incredible views as seen above. I spent the entire morning bodysurfing and seeing waves crash on the cliffs as well as following sea turtles. Watch the above video carefully.

Flores,San Juan
La Perla From Distance

The final night was back in San Juan. I took a motor view of the seaside Barrio of La Perla, where cameras are strictly forbidden. The final activity was snorkeling just off El Morro, before dashing to SJU for the flight back to MIA.

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While 70% of US Citizens favor dropping all restrictions for traveling to Cuba, President Trump , delivering on a campaign promise to a vocal minority in Miami, has reimposed restrictions on most individual travel to Cuba. These will likely take effect in the coming months. The purpose of the restrictions is to help individual Cubans in the tourism sector. Thankfully, TotalAdventure trips fall into that category. We have amazing trips that see the real Cuba, working and visiting with local people.

There are 3 places left on Cuba Explorer – 9 Days in August for $ 2199.

Also in August Cuba Rhythms – Only $ 944 !

The Cuba Colonial trip is also in August.  6 Places left at $ 2499.

Complete List of TotalAdventure Cuba Adventures 

Mar 16th
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TotalAdventure returned to Cuba from January 12th to 19th . Havana has changed quite a bit – due to the relaxed US business and tourism policies. Many new businesses have started – and following in the footsteps of China in the 1980s – a dual system is taking hold. There are more cars – Havana may see it’s first traffic jam  in 60 years, about 5 years from now. The weather this year was calmer and warmer, with daytime highs about 78 (26 C) and lows about 62. (16C) Above is the Malecón in the mid afternoon, taken from El Morro.

The Fathom – Bound For Miami.

A reminder of less peaceful times – 1961.

On Avenida Galiano.

Art Deco -style pharmacy.

Avenue Galiano.

Revolution Square.

1937 Chevy.

Near Downtown.

Local Block Committee.

One of the newer American cars – the 1960 Ford Fairlane.

In memory of the recently departed leader.

At The Museum of the Revolution.

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On Sunday morning, January 15th TotalAdventure motored to Viñales , in Pinar del Río , Cuba’s westernmost region, about 2 1/2 hours from Havana.

The land is punctuated by limestone mountains jutting out of the farmland, much like rock formations in South China and Southeast Asia – caused by millions of years of erosion.

A mountain panorama. Hard to believe this area is so close to Florida.

Burning off brush. Flames were so hot that skin felt like burning from 4 meters away.

TotalAdventure dined twice at Finca Agroecoligica El Paraiso. They do not yet have their own website. Everything is produced on the land ,including this recently slaughtered pig, who makes excellent lechon asado .

All vegetables are grown on the restaurant’s land as well. This guarantees supplies and does not strain the public food distribution system .Everything is sustainable and recyclable.

Huge portions for 12 CUC per diner.

The old farmhouse is busy day and night. Some say – one of the best meals in Cuba. Beer is not served as it comes in disposable bottles . Instead – local rum from reusable bottles !

El Paraiso by night.

Driving to the guest house after dinner.

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On Monday, January 16 ,TotalAdventure drove to Esenada Nombre de Dios on the Gulf of Mexico. Other than Mexico itself, it is the only place on the Gulf where one can actually see mountains – the limestone monoliths of Viñales about 30 miles distant.

As the peninsula was only 30 miles away, we thought it would be a quick morning trip to explore’s the area’s possibility as an eco-resort ( not likely ) and a  snorkel swim. However, the roads were in serious need of repaving and turned out to be an all day excursion instead.

Iconic lighthouse, about half way between Florida and Mexico.

The Gulf beaches are clean and peaceful. TotalAdventure is exploring areas that might be good for an eco-resort – but the coral reef is not well developed in this area.

A deserted subtropic isle.

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If cigar aficionados want to go to the source – Pinar del Río grows the finest tobacco for Havana cigars. The field above produces for Montecristo.

The Westernmost part of Cuba.

Drying leaf. The process takes about a month.

Rolling Montecristo -quality leaf.

Smoking a fresh handroll. Team TotalAdventure with the farmer.

Cuban cigars are not yet sold in the United States, but travelers may bring in up to $ 400 worth of cigars duty free. That’s about $ 145 above.

 

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MIAHAV

The flight from Miami to Havana is only 45 minutes, but it’s a trip back in time. To 1959.

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TotalAdventure flew on the newly relaunched Eastern Airlines – actually a charter by Havana Air. Real commercial fights will start later this year.

 

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Arrival at  Aeropuerto José  Martí.

TotalAdventure was in Cuba in order to research how to set up eco-friendly and cultural trips to be led by local individuals. TotalAdventure operates just like AirBnb – with adventures instead of apartments. Our challenge is finding reputable guides offering unique experiences. One of the biggest difficulties is limited internet access – Wi-Fi is very expensive for the average person and it is generally not available in private homes.

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The view from TotalAdventure’s $ 47 a night AirBnb apartment.

As the economy slowly transitions, Total Adventure does it’s best to patronize and work with individuals and families. Instead of a hotel, a local apartment or house. And always a private car and driver – whether a city taxi ride, a long trip from Havana to Trinidad and back , or a day tour in the Trinidad region.

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Taxi from the airport to apartment – 1953 Chevy !

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The neighborhood in Habana Vieja.

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Cuba is the world’s largest renovation project !

 

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All the Cuba posts were uploaded on the sameday, after return to Miami, due to limited access in Cuba. The final post is “Cuba Road Trip 2016”  – a real life video !

For current adventures in Cuba CLICK HERE.

Feb 17th
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Military display near El Morro.

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Che is everywhere.

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Hemingway is everywhere.

 

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Like Miami beach – Art Deco.

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Controls for the Hershey Train.

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Hotel Nacional de Cuba. There is a twin building in Palm Beach – the Biltmore.

 

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1962.

 

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1962.

 

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Saturday Morning March.

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Time standing still.


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Nightlife – at an old Hemingway favorite.

For current adventures in Cuba CLICK HERE.