WATCH THE VIDEO ABOVE !

On the cold spring morning of October 4th TotalAdventure arrived in Santiago, Chile on the way to three separate adventures in the 6000 kilometer long nation. After spending the weekend with a boarding school friend, I was joined a pre-Adventure of the Adveneture Travel World Summit in Cajon de Maipo , a beautiful mountain region just west of Santiago. The theme was adventure in the countryside, followed by two days of exploring Chile’s capitol.

Our Adventure Crew. Names and links to companies will soon be listed here.

Our first activity was rafting down the Rio Maipo. The rapids were fast, about Class 3 ,withspring snowmelt from the glacial mountains. The runoff is dark with sediment and doesn’t slow down until summer in December. Company : NatExplora. WATCH THE VIDEO ABOVE FOR EXCELLENT RAFTING FOOTAGE !

That night we drove up to 2500 meters to observe the Southern Hemispher stars – three times as many as are visible in the Northern Hemisphere. While I was not able to capture photos through the telescope lens – I did see the rings of Saturn for the first time !

The next morning was canyoneering – rappelling down the side of waterfalls .

We drove high into the valleys ,where strong October spring sunshine melted the snow above. Just a few days before the snow levels had reached down to our level.

A panorama shot of the valley.

Though were are at 9000 feet, 2700m the terrain was once part of a seabed.

Evening festivities at the local community center of Maipo.

Like the USA, German heritage is common in Chile.

In a small valley village.

East towards the glaciers.

Our group enjoyed many local festivities and the excellent wine of the region. Soft adventure here.

A view from the room at Cascada de Las Ánimas. Much like a treehouse looking at the surrounding forest and mountains, with decent WiFi.

The very cold pool which apparently warms in summer.

We descended from the mountains to the vineyards.One of the world’s largest producers – Santa Rita.

They have a historic museum with ancient Inca artifacts – Here – a cuy.

Nearly 40 years old !

The hotel features a billiards room.

A chapel.

A gourmand dining room.

A lunch worthy of a Michelin Star.

A palette to Japan.

After lunch , a tasting of the whites. We had Tinto ( Red) with lunch.

We arrived back in the capitol on time for sunset from the top of Latin America’s tallest tower – Sky Costañera – 300 meters – 980feet 82 stories tall. Impressive for a major earthquake zone ! VIIEW THE VIDEO AT THE TOP !

From the 82nd Floor of Sky Costañera.

La Moneda – The Presidential Palace.

Many Cathedrals dominate this Catholic City.

On Sunday, October 12, predawn transport to the airport, thistime the domestic side, for our 4000 km 4 hour flight to Puerto Natales for the Adventure Travel World Summit.

WATCH THE VIDEO ABOVE !

On Sunday October 12 TotalAdventure soared over the Andes, above the Patagonian Icefields , the world’s largest in the temperate zones, for a 4 hour flight from Santiago to Puerto Natales.

Over 700 delegates from all 7 continents flew in to this remote spot on the Planet to take part in the 20th Adventure Travel World Summit . TotalAdventure took part as a buyer. We buy trips to sell to our worldwide following of adventurers. TotalAdventure has been to over half of the ATWS events – Seattle 2006, Whistler 2007, São Paulo 2008, Lucerne 2012, Swakopmund 2013, Puerto Varas 2015, Anchorage 2016,Salta 2017, Gothenburg 2019,Sapporo 2023 and now, Puerto Natales for 2025. 2026 is in Quebec City.

Shannon Stowell is Our Leader. of the Adventure Travel Trade Association. He estimates about 50,000 Adventure Travel leaders have taken part in events over the years. The industry is estimated to generate $1.16 Trillion in revenue annually worldwide generating many millions of jobs. Tourism is the 2nd largest source of jobs in many countries, especially poorer ones. The ATTA’s message is one of sustainability . Travel enterprises should have minimal effect on the environment, recycle and reuse whenever possible, hire local people as guides and storytellers. Most members are small entrepreneurial companies.

One of the main events at ATWS is the marketplace. Agents and providers meet each other to sell amazing worldwide experiences.TotalAdventure had 30 meetings leading to 18 new listings. Here I meet with Pia Abboud of Discovery Beyond Borders, Lebanon.

I first came to the Far South of Patagonia in February, 1991. I drove to Puerto Natales from Rio Gallegos, Argentina. I was one of 5 cars to cross the border that day. This photo is on Glaciar Moreno in El Calfate, Argentina. 35 years later, I am happy to report that the nature has not been changed much – due to strict and well planned conservation and sustainable tourism. Of course there are many more hotels, restaurants and tour companies catering to adventurous travelers from all over the world. Also technology is far more advanced. That’s a Sony Hi-8 video camera – considered quite advanced for the time with 480 lines . I had a custom made battery belt that powered it all day. To edit, I had to rent a $ 200 per hour studio in New York. Now I shoot on a GoPro 12 with up to 5300 lines and edit on my MacBook Air with FinalCut Pro.

My next trip here, in September 2022 , for Adventure Next took me on the 4 day W Trek. You can read about it HERE.

TotalAdventure has explored 106 countries. Torres del Paine is perhaps the most beautiful place on Earth. Torres del Paine is the broken end of the Andes, stretching 12000 miles North to Alaska via the Rockies.

Empty land makes for pure mountain rivers going from glacier, to lake to river to another lake and eventually into the icy Pacific.

The water runs very fast and very cold. SEE THE VIDEO AT THE TOP OF THE ARTICLE.

Tens of thousands of gallons per minute.

ATWS held a huge welcoming party at Torres del Paine National Park. A huge asado of local lamb was amazing – eaten right off the bone, Large helpings of pisco helped attendees endure the numbing cold, rain and sleet.

For our entertainment – Chile’s top band – Los Jaivas !

A small cottage along the fjords of Puerto Natales. Firewood is needed year round.

The weather never truly warms up due to proximity to Antarctica and a frigid ocean. He we see the southernmost reaches of the Pacific Ocean. When people think of the South Pacific, they imagine palm fringed tropical paradises. Not here. October is spring but still 3 C with 60 kph winds. The fjords often have floating ice chunks . wWnter lows in July can be -22C 0 F and in summer rarely goes above 22 C 72 F.

51 43 South.

Parihuela- a seafood stew of local delicacies.

Swans and their offspring.

Downtown Puerto Natales.

From Puerto Natales it is not possible to drive to the rest of the country without driving though Argentina. Navimag Ferries take cars and people on an amazing two day journey to Puerto Montt through stunning fjords.

From Puerto Natales, TotalAdventure flew North to Puerto Montt for the third and final phase of Adventures in Chile.

WATCH THE VIDEO ABOVE !

On Saturday October 18, at the conclusion of the Adventure Travel World Summit in Puerto Natales, Chile, TotalAdventure flew 2 hours north to Puerto Montt, with other delegates, where we were greeted by Scarlett Riquelme of Mawida Adventures. From the airport, we departed for Huilo Huilo Reserva Biólogica a vast privately held expanse of 60,000 hectares of forest,lakes,waterfalls, hot springs and the volcanic Andes Mountains.

The Northernmost region of Chilean Patagonia from 40 to 38 South Latitude, and 72 to 73 West Longitude.

We arrived at the amazing Huilo Huilo Hotel,where we would reside the next two nights. The hotel is huge with wild architecture, yet blends in perfectly with the huge silent forest around it.

Private Balcony In The Forest.

After a morning hike by the waterfalls, our group took an amazing fast boat ride on Lago Pirihueco. The lake is part of the Ruta Lagos Y Volcanes. You can experience the motion in THE VIDEO UP TOP.

Guanacos graze peacefully within the Preserve.

Our Group. of Travel Professionals. The women were faster hikers than the men.

Huilo Huilo Sunset.

An evening foray into the reserve to view the waterfalls under lights. October water volume is very high due to spring snowmelt.

By summer the water slows to a trickle.

We descended steep slippery trails with headlamps.

From Huilo Huilo, our adventurers moved North, towards Pucón.On the way we bathed in the very hot springs of the Termas Geométricas. There were many pools, ranging in temperature from 37 to 44 C. The water felt great on a cold 8 C rainy day.

The next 3 nights were at the beautiful boutique Hotel Aldea Naukana in Pucón.

The Mapuche Tribe are the original people of Central and Southern Chile. Despite challenges from European invaders and settlers, their culture has remained intact, with some modern conveniences. We spent a morning in a small village learning from one of the elders.

A traditional lodge,where we dined inside.

Bread is prepared in the firepit.

We played Palin, a game very similar to field hockey.

Now the real adventure begins. Class 3 rapids on the Rio Trancura.

SEE THE VIDEO UP TOP TO EXPERIENCE IN MOTION !

Spring Snowmelt – Water is 7 C. ( 45 American temperature)

A Roller Coaster Ride.

On the final day we ascended Villarrica Volcano, 2860 M , 9380 Feet. One of Chile’s most active volcanoes, the last major eruption was in 2015, with a plume of lava and ash just last year in 2024. The Andes are actually part of a 12000 mile chain of mountains beginning in Alaska and ending at the Drake passage. The Ring of Fire, around the Pacific Rim, is largely volcanic.

Warning !

Experienced guides lead the expedition.

The early morning cold ,about -2 C made the snow crunchy and icy. By nid morning it has softened in the strong spring sunshine.

Only 4 Kilometers, but takes several hours due to 45 degree slope.Many people ski up and down, which is much faster.

Once again, the women were in the lead. The summit was reached by mid day. SEE THE VIDEO AT THE START OF THE ARTICLE.

Mawida Adventures ( TotalAdventure Logo is automatically stamped on all media) is the leading agency for adventure in the Pucón Region. Right now Mawida offers an amazing trip : Volcano Trilogy. The next trip is from December 1st to December 7th . Enjoy the long sunny Southern Hemisphere summer days as you experience the adventures above, but with three volcanoes ! $ 2576 US. Contact Us Directly with any questions.

On June 16th TotalAdventure flew from Los Angeles to Fairbanks Alaska, to join with our Northern Producer,Martin Z. for a 500 mile drive up the Dalton Highway to Deadhorse – at Prudhoe Bay. WATCH THE VIDEO ABOVE.

In the 500 Miles between Fairbanks and Deadhorse there is only one stop with lodging, food and fuel – at Coldfoot Camp. There are otherwise only scattered scientific and work camps ( road and pipeline workers ). There are no rest stops ,billboards, McDonald’s, gas stations , nothing but beautiful unspoiled Arctic nature.

The informal road started after the War (2) but became a formal paved and gravel road with the building of the Alyeska Oil Pipeline in the 1970s. From the top in Deadhorse, at Prudhoe Bay, one can drive 12000 miles to the other end of the planet in Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina, where TotalAdventure was only 6 months before , in Southern Summer, before boarding the ship to Antarctica.

About 140 miles north of Fairbanks. The summertime forest is verdant and full of mosquitos. The sign makes for good target practice.

TotalAdventure crosses the Arctic Circle on land for the first time. In the air, we have flown over the North Pole countless times. On this day, June 19, the sun will dip below the horizon for 2 minutes. On June 21 it will not set at all. Note there all tall trees at this latitude. In Antarctica trees do not exist in a true polar climate. SEE THE VIDEO ABOVE.

The pipeline runs nearly 1000 miles from Prudhoe Bay to Valdez. The oil supplies mainly the US West Coast, Alaska and sometimes Japan.

Lunchtime. We bought all our own food , as there are no rest stop food courts along the way. Sandwiches for lunch and fresh local smoked salmon for dinner.

Our car – A 4 wheel drive Ford Escape rented from North Alaska Tours. It comes equipped with a CB radio as cell service is only available in Coldfoot and Deadhorse, not on the road itself. Behind the car is the Deadhorse gas station – at $7.19 a gallon it’s 30 cents cheaper than Coldfoot. Though the fuel comes directly from under the ground, it has to travel thousands of miles to be refined and trucked back again

Dinner in Coldfoot. Salmon, cheese, sausage and spirits. Drinking in private is legal in “damp ” zones of Alaska. Some areas are completely dry.,including the secure zone at Prudhoe Bay.

Tracks of a young bear in what appears to be very soft sand – evidently not quicksand.

Entering the Brooks Range – separate from the Rockies to the South – about 5500 feet and still a fair amount of snow in June.

Scientific station at Toolik.

Musk Ox. A smaller member of the Buffalo family . Some of the best meat I have ever tasted – but did not have it this time. One would have to know a licensed hunter in season.

A river having just thawed out on the first day of summer. SEE THE VIDEO ABOVE.

A lodge at Coldfoot Camp.

Crossing a river near the Brooks Range.

Dalton Highway Panorama.

Leaving Coldfoot Camp Northbound.

Leaving the Brooks Range for the North Slope.

The sun rises on May 15th and doesn’t set till July 29th. We were there at the exact solstice at 0658 AKDT on 21-6 . ( 1058 EDT)

Prudhoe Bay is a town of 3000 people with no permanent residents. Workers are there 2 weeks and one week off. 7 days a week,12 hours a day. 0600 to 1800 and 1800 to 0600. Most live in Texas or Oklahoma and are flown back there between shifts, although a a few live in Anchorage and Fairbanks. Average salary is $ 150,000 a year, with many making much more. Right now 300,000 barrels a day are pumped. In the 1970s there were over 2 million barrels pumped a day. The machinery of the wells in encased in concrete to prevent freezing in 60 below temperatures in the winter.

At last , the Arctic Ocean. On the first day of summer, the ice has melted along the edges ,but is still a solid sheet further out. We swam in the 32 degree water ( 0C ) The air was 37 ( 2.5) TotalAdventure has now swam in all 4 Oceans ! Saltwater freezes at 28 F, -2.8 C. SEE THE VIDEO ABOVE FOR THE SWIMMING !

2700 miles across is the Norway/Karelia Russia border. Chukotka Krai , Russia is 650 miles West and Yukon Territory ,Canada is about 120 miles East. The North Pole is 20 degrees or 1200 Nautical Miles.

Swimming Amongst the Arctic Ocean Ice Floes in Zero Centigrade.

Official Certificate.

$ 219 a night room at Deadhorse. Comfortable beds, very hot shower down the hall and laundry ! The very hot shower was great after the swim.

Returning South On The Dalton. Though the land looks green and marshy during the eight week melt season, it is actually a desert. There is only 5 inches of precipitation annually, most of that in the form of snow, though we had a cold rain for a few hours. When the snow melts ,it has no where to go because of permafrost below and the weak sun can’t evaporate it.

Spanish motorcycle crew at Coldfoot – they have come all the way from Tierra del Fuego.

Icy River !

Back In Fairbanks At Last . 1020 miles round trip and now, in 80 degree weather we viewed Mt. Denali ( McKinley) from over 130 miles away. The 20,000 foot mountain is eternally snow covered.TotalAdventure flew to McKinley Base Cap twice in 2016.

WATCH THE VIDEO ABOVE FOR THE WHOLE EXPERIENCE !

Only a very small percentage of the world’s population has been to the Icy Continent at the bottom of Planet Earth. Until the 1980s almost no one but scientists and military explorers had gone to Antarctica, which wasn’t even discovered till 1800. This 2022-23 season may see almost 100,000 visitors, most by ship, some by plane. At any rate , probably less than 1 million people have ever been to Antarctica, about one in 8000.

The land is extremely dangerous. Only the most experienced well equipped explorers can move about on their own – as part of well funded expeditions. The rest go on ice breaker exploration cruise ships or on sailboats. One can be crushed by falling ice, sink into snow like quicksand, never to be seen again or simply swallowed by an avalanche, perhaps seen again in 10,000 years.

Most of the treacherous land is simply photographed. We observed many mountains that had never been climbed, because it would be almost impossible. Here we don’t talk about feet or meters of snow – we talk about kilometers or miles of depth. Up to 5km deep in the interior.

Under hundreds of meters of powdery snow is a mountain. It has now been proven that these mountains are actually a continuation of the Andes, and on to the Rockies. Only the Peninsula has mountain chains, most of the rest of the continent is a flat dry cold desert,,where the snow only falls as a dusting, but since it never melts, lasts forever.

In December the sun only sets for 90 minutes and the sky does not get dark, here at 65 South. At the South Pole, 90 South , it is light for six months.

Apple Watch Astronomy.

Most mountains are jagged like the Andes.

TotalAdventure – On The Seventh Continent !

A former British scientific base , Port Lockroy, is preserved and open in summer for visitors ,who can also shop at what is probably the only souvenir stand on the entire continent. For £ 2 one can send an Antarctica stamped postcard anywhere in the world – via London. 4 women run the show – chosen from 4000 applicants.

The men ( certainly no women in those days) lived a rugged life, in the interest of Science, serving the Crown. Assignments were often 2 years – cut off from the world other than radio for 9 months of winter.

A Young Queen and her Prince give encouragement to the lads in far flung outposts.

The bar was well stocked, but one year the supply ship got stuck in early season ice, and rationing was enforced.

Depending on wind and snow weight, some mountain slopes are bare.

TotalAdventure is not amused how uneducated some compatriots are. I am constantly asked if there are polar bears and igloos in Antarctica. Do these people not remember 3rd Grade geography ? I am also asked why we take a ship instead of a plane and what the hotels are like ? Why I can’t receive a text or a phone call ? No one has yet asked what car rentals cost ,but I’m sure that’s coming.

TotalAdventure – Reporting From Antarctica !

Hondius is the first-registered Polar Class 6 vessel in the world, meeting the latest and highest Lloyd’s Register standards for ice-strengthened cruise ships. Surpassing the requirements of the Polar Code adopted by the International Maritime Organization (IMO), Hondius represents the most flexible, advanced, innovative touring vessel in the polar regions, thoroughly optimized for exploratory voyages that provide you the utmost first-hand contact with the Arctic and Antarctica. ( Credit : Oceanwide Expeditions ) Length 107.6 Meters . Can Accommodate 170 Passengers In 80 Cabins. Only 4 years old – launched in 2019.

Observing Five Meter Waves From The Bridge,As We Cross The Drake Passage.

Top Of The Line Navigation – Ensures safe and speedy passage through the Drake and into ice filled Antarctic waters. Antarctic season is from November to April and Arctic season from May to September.

Hearty meals 3 times a day keep explorers energetic and alert for landings on the icy continent.

TotalAdventure’s Antarctic office. Satellite Wifi is extremely expensive and slow- even the ship staff suggest just unplugging. Some passengers used satellite phones and text devices to stay in touch with family. TotalAdventure used the MacBook Pro to review the day’s GoPro video and still photos. It was great to leave the rest of the world behind for 10 days – nothing much had changed by our return to Ushuaia.

Our extremely comfortable cabin on Deck 6. Housekeeping service daily, consistent hot water in shower and very quiet. Large screen with movies and constant update on navigation, daily schedule. The Hondius is an exploration ship, not a cruise ship. No casino ,no disco, though there is a bar in the lounge.

On this voyage we went within 100km of the Circle. The Antarctic Peninsula is the only part of the continent where one can embark upon the actual shoreline – the rest of the coast is surrounded by ice shelves extending many kilometers out.

The Midnight Sun From Deck 8.

On the bow after lunch, en route to the afternoon landing.

The Hondius Lounge – for lectures, a drink at the bar, card playing, and watching the icebergs float by.

For the most part we experienced great early summer weather. Temperatures from – 4 to +6 ,most of the time right around Zero . ( C) There were some light snow accumulations on the ship overnight twice.

Landings are by motorized Zodiac. We had a total of 8 landings in 4 days, with only one destination change due to ice conditions.

From the Stern- Return To Ushuaia – Base Port For The Southern Summer.

TotalAdventure Is Currently En Route To Antarctica. We arrived here on Wednesday , November 30th after flying from Miami through Buenos Aries.

It is 600 Miles Across And Will Take 2 Days.

The MV Hondius Is An Icebreaker Class 6 Polar Ship. Built in 2019,It carries 112 Passengers. You can track our voyage HERE

Glaciar Martial. At ehe end of the 12000 mile Rockies and Andes chain that begins in Alaska.

Argentina is 5000 km North To South. A long beautiful drive.

The Malvinas Are An Important Situation Here.

Ushuaia Is Far From Everywhere !

Southernmost Commercial Airport In The World.

Don Bosco Cathedral.

Glacial Stream.

Looking South TO Chile. TotalAdventure will depart tomorrow afternoon throught the Beagle Channel and past Cape Horn.

TotalAdventure returns to Ushuaia Argentina on December 13 . We are extremely unlikely to have any internet or cellular contact while on the expedition, but perhaps a sporadic link. TotalAdventure looks forward to sharing the adventure with everyone !

This article is the first of a two part story – where TotalAdventure explores the southernmost reaches of the inhabited world. TotalAdventure was invited by the Adventure Travel Trade Association and SERNATUR ( Chile Ministry of Tourism) to joining two expeditions – one in Torres del Paine National Park – more detail in the next article and another engaging in other activities on Estancias and in the vast preserves of nature. SERNATUR paid for air travel and other essentials. The trips I joined were run by Chile Nativo. Besides exploring the incredible nature of the region – we met with 25 companies chosen to work with us to sell their packages on TotalAdventure. 32 other buyers , along with press , were invited to promote the pristine unspoiled remote areas of Chilean Patagonia , the Strait of Magellan – the Gateway To The Antarctic.

TotalAdventure has been commuting to the Southern Cone this year. First, 8 hours to Santiago. Then another 4 hours down to Puerto Natales.

To El Fin Del Mundo – The End Of The World.

From Summer To Winter.

Where The Guanacos Roam.

Stripped Clean By Pumas.

Rheas, A Smaller Version Of The South African Ostrich.

Argentina Border. In order to drive to other parts of Chile, one must drive over 1600 km through Argentina. Chile is almost all islands or impassable glaciers and forest from Puerto Natales to Puerto Montt. Relations between the two competing Latin giants are cordial ,but not always friendly.

We spent the day at Estancia Cerro Guido, very near the Argentine border crossing at Río Don Guillermo. The Estancia has huge herds of sheep, and allows visitors to experience daily life on the Patagonian steppes.

The sheep are very wooly by winter’s end.

It’s time for a haircut. While the ewe is mildly annoyed, there is no pain. It can be dangerous for the wool to get too thick and heavy. In freezing rain and heavy snow, the animals can’t move and can die of cold. This past winter ( May to October) was the coldest and snowiest in many years – the Estancia had to rescue some herds .

The wool is shipped all over the world to be made into high quality sweaters, dresses, socks and hats.

Lunch at Estancia Cerro Guido. Parilla del Cordero. ( Lamb ) A guest might enjoy this daily.

View From On High – Towards Torres Del Paine.

The next day, outside of Puerto Natales we rode horses up Cerro Dorotea. The outfit was not totally my choice. The horses were well tempered and responsive to more experienced riders, such as myself.

Led by Guachos – Born In The Saddle !

A warm fire at the mountaintop. It was sleeting at the top.

Patagonia Before The European Settlers.

On the final day, before sales meetings began, we boarded a cruiser for an expedition through Fjord Ultima Esperanza to Glaciar Balmaceda, about 50 km from Puerto Natales.

The saltwater fjord extends a long way from the Pacific.

Seals live in caves along the cliffs.

Mother And Pup.

The days are spent fishing and getting some late winter sunshine.

A low flying bird . The caracara ? Ornithologists  please let us know..

I’ll Have A Grant’s . On 3000 Year Old Glacier Rocks Please.

Abstract Nature.

The Explorer At Work.

Glacial Waters spilling into the fjord.

Purest Water Anywhere !

Down From Glaciar Balmaceda.

Bandera de Patagonia.

Magellanic Penguins Live On The Cliffs – Safe From Seals.

Outdoors Adventures Concluded – At the Hotel Rio Serrano we were greeted with an incredible Parillada de Cordero. The next two days were spent meeting with 25 local adventure providers – all of whom we hope sell adventures on TotalAdventure Chile Nativo already is !.

Beautiful warm pool, with nearby saunas, whirlpools and gym to warm up after a day on the glaciers !

All too soon, the adventures came to a close and it was time to head to the airport. Observed outside at a roadside cafe – two sheepdogs entertaining themselves.

From Punta Arenas it’s a 4 1/2 hour flight to Santiago, where I had a 7 hour layover, so went into the city to have dinner with a friend. After a connecting flight through Bogotá on Avianca, I was back in Miami the next afternoon. Punta Arenas is the second most southerly commercial airport in the world – with actual flights to Antarctica – about 800 mies south.

I first came to the Far South of Patagonia in February, 1991. I drove to Puerto Natales from Rio Gallegos, Argentina. I was one of 5 cars to cross the border that day. This photo is on Glaciar Moreno in El Calfate, Argentina. 31 years later, I am happy to report that the nature has not been changed much – due to strict and well planned conservation and sustainable tourism. Of course there are many more hotels, restaurants and tour companies catering to adventurous travelers from all over the world. Also technology is far more advanced. That’s a Sony Hi-8 video camera – considered quite advanced for the time with 480 lines . I had a custom made battery belt that powered it all day. To edit, I had to rent a $ 200 per hour studio in New York. Now I shoot on a GoPro 10 with up to 5300 lines and edit on my MacBook Pro. It was great to be back – stay tuned for TotalAdventure’s return to Tierra del Fuego and onwards to Antarctica next month – December 2022 !

On the morning of Friday,July 24th I left Deadwood South Dakota and within an hour had entered Wyoming on SD 34/ WY 24 . The first stop was Devil’s Tower.

Rising straight out of flat farmland,Devil’s Tower is 867 feet and formed in a short time due to volcanic upthrust. It is very geologically different than the Black Hills over 100 miles away, or the Rockies , more than 200. You can experience it in the video above.

By mid afternoon I settled into Sheridan, at the foot of the Big Horn National Forest. As usual I dined alone on the hotel porch rather than in a lively restaurant .COVID life on the road. Everything closed by 8 anyway.

Big Horn National Park offers hundreds of square miles of hiking, climbing, glacier trekking and ATV trailing. Since it’s not a National Park, it’s not well known except locally. I was the only Florida plate, most were from Wyoming and Montana.

Dropping down a few thousand feet from the Big Horn Range, TotalAdventure explored the Snake River Canyon , traversing the Wyoming Montana border. The canyon had been dry with a seasonal stream until a dam was built in the 1930s.

I then entered my 49th state, Montana ! Just one more to go – Oklahoma, but won’t be there until the return trip East in September.

Before Yellowstone, I overnighted in Billings and Red Lodge Montana. In Billings I enjoyed a big Montana steak, but when I arrived at my hotel in Red Lodge after a day in Snake River, about 7:30 to discover that due to COVID my hotel restaurant was closed and the few restaurants still open in town would be closing at 8. This New York/Miami traveler is not used to small town hours but had to adjust on this trip or face night time starvation. I was the last one served from the line at a Mexican cantina and scored a PBR from the bar/casino across the street. The bars closed at 9 !

From Red Lodge to Yellowstone the winding ,high altitude Beartooth Highway crisscrossed several times between Wyoming and Montana.

The Summer of 2020 was probably one of the best to explore Yellowstone. Though crowds were sizable , they were all American crowds, as most foreigners, not even Canadians, could visit in the COVID summer. The notorious traffic jams did not appear.

Yellowstone sits atop a super volcano. When it does finally blow – anytime between the next 10 minutes to 10,000 years – the park will become a 50 mile wide lake of boiling red lava and will cause global cooling for years to come.

The falls look even more incredible in the video above. Be sure to watch it all.

After a day and a half in Yellowstone ( many people stay a week or more) it was time to head north into Montana. Passing Big Sky on a beautiful highway with a legal speed limit of 80 mph I arrived in Butte around sunset. I would stay there 2 nights, to explore the old mining city , to catch up on work ,do laundry and get the extremely dusty X2 washed.

Gold Copper and silver were mined here. Butte was known as the “Richest Hill On Earth.” Miners came from all over the world. Copper is still mined, but there’s not much left. The old city is quiet but not quite abandoned.

From Butte , a few more hours to the Northwest and I arrived in Whitefish ,gateway to Glacier National Park. Whitefish was full of California ‘refugees”,many who had arrived in private jets ,escaping mask and lockdown restrictions in their home state.

In Glacier , on the first day of August, I swam over a mile in 2 lakes and walked in the snow.

On the morning of August 2nd, I left Whitefish for a day of mostly dirt roads from Montana into Idaho. I missed my westward turn and would up at the Canadian border. When I originally thought of this cross country trip,years ago, I had always meant for it to include Canada. Winnipeg, Saskatoon, and Banff would have been on the itinerary. But in March 2020, the Canadian government had shut the borders to all but commercial traffic, due ,of course to disease spread.

All I could do was look into this closed off , beautiful land – in this case the easternmost corner of British Columbia ,near Alberta. The next several hours was on windy isolated dirt roads – into the town of Yaak .

I walked inside the bar, which of course was all bikers . Had a friendly beer and they were amazed I was all the way from Miami. No photos were permitted, probably for very good reasons.

I spent the night in touristy Couer d’Alene, Idaho, another town where restaurants closed at 8 and I had to order pizza by 9 before that closed too. Changed clocks back for the last time. The next day – through Washington State, past Spokane – to Portland ,Oregon – almost completely cross country !

After TotalAdventure left La Paz , driven by our driver/guide Juan , we drove past mountains  towering up to 21000 feet, perpetually covered in snow. This area of Bolivia lies at 17 South Latitude – equal to Trancoso Brazil, with beautiful  tropical beaches , or the Great Barrier Reef in Australia. Elevation makes the transition from Tropic to Arctic.

After about two hours we arrived at Lake Titicaca. At 12,500 feet ( 3800 m) it is the world’s highest navigable lake.

Only six hours from Miami, TotalAdventure is in a very different world.

Fishermen can live on giant reed rafts for weeks – living on fish and fresh lake water.

The water never goes above 52 degrees. Only one kind of fish, a trout , lives there. On every restaurant menu.

Modern Day Incas.

Sunset Over Peru.

Monday, October 9th, began with a visit to the Cathedral in Copacabana, the main town on Lake Titicaca.

We drove to the north of La Paz and El Alto towards the extremely high Andes.

Past a Shaman Burial Ground.

TotalAdventure spent the night at 4800 meters , 15,600 feet.

The accommodations were Spartan. There was no heat or fire as no trees grow in such high altitudes. The temperature dropped to 15 F , -10 C outside, not much warmer inside.

Coca Leaf Tea keeps us warm and healthy.

In the morning we drove up to Chacaltaya – until recently the world’s highest ski resort at 17,200 feet. Also at 17 degrees south, the closest ski resort to the Equator. However, the glacier disappeared by 2005, so the resort had to rely completely on snow and is more or less closed.

TotalAdventure was at the highest altitude we have ever been outside an airplane.

Skiers can climb up to about 18,000 feet to ski down.

In the afternoon we descended below La Paz ,driving six hours south into the desert.

In the distance is Salar de Uyuni.

Arriving in Uyuni Town. Here TotalAdventure switched guides and vehicles in preparation for Lipiz Sur !